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Is there any lock out hubs out there that don't stick out very far? Id like mine to be less noticeable , like they aren't there. Is there a smaller type to use? -Jay

in order for a hub to be able to unlock it has to have an internal splined section that can engage enough splines to hold the axle, but also slide out far enough to disengage. maybe someone else can be more help than me!

Selectros probably offer the shortest profile; I run Superwinch hubs on mine and they stick out quite a bit. I recall that Bryan Sage used to make guards for the Superwinch hubs-unsure if any are available anywhere.
Gary

I have a pair of Bryans hubguards on my Warns, won't let me upload a pic- says it is too big.

Hi Jay,

I was thinking along the same lines as you........I wanted to find a pair of hubs that weren't noticeable...........but they don't exist. I've taken pics of the different hubs installed on M37s at meets I've gone to over the past few years to compare and none of them are "thin".......they all stick out about the same, give or take. I plan on getting a set of Selectros and milling off the logo and "heavy duty" lettering and painting them OD with the rim. I've seen the hub guards that Bryan made.......they just make the hubs that much more noticeable.........but are a good thing if you do a lot of rock crawling.

regards,
bob

there were those twin lever style hubs on Ebay for crazy money. they looked very short. for the cost I would rather have a spare set of selectors under the seat or a few pairs of superwinch

hub stories:
I had one wheel fall in a 3ft deep unmarked concrete lined junction box on a buddy's claim. landed hung up on the selectro hub.. worst thing that happened is it unlocked.
with the superwinch I clipped a rock in the snow doing 10mph and all I saw was a glint of aluminum streak past the windshield. good thing I had stock hubs under the seat.

I have a set of Superwinch hubs with hub guards on my m37, they stick out 3 1/16" with the guards on. The hub guard adds about 1/8". I also have a set of the Dualmatic lever type hubs and they measure 2 5/16". I have a Selectro style hub around here somewhere but I think the lever type Dualmatics are probably the shortest.

I have a NOS set of Warn hubs installed, I would say if you get the reproductions of this hub, they may cover the bases as far as what you are looking for. Nice and tight profile.

-T

Those Dualmatics are pretty pricey , I found a set on ebay.

yeah the set i see is green, used, and they want $500 for them. they do look pretty bomb-proof though

i'm looking for a single locking hub for mine, mine has one stock locked hub and one selectable

what type of hub ? I have a 1 and a half supperwinches with the blue paint $50cdn (37.53usd)+ shipping they were on the truck for about six months.

carolinamv wrote:Those Dualmatics are pretty pricey , I found a set on ebay.

thats nothing
http://www.dodgepowerwagon.com/classifi ... 3-hubs.php

Jesus, 1500 for locking hubs....

The set I found I thought was crazy.

RMS wrote:what type of hub ? I have a 1 and a half supperwinches with the blue paint $50cdn (37.53usd)+ shipping they were on the truck for about six months.

i'll take em! i'll send you a PM


looks like your PM is turned off, go ahead and send me one

Truth here is any of them stick out far enough to be vulnerable if you are concerned with damaging them. Buying lock-out hubs is really simple, there is low quality, (Superwinch no longer available as new), then there is moderate quality, (Selectro), then there is the top of the line, rebuildable WARN type reproduction hubs. The latter is now $1,500 plus in cost; they are excellent hubs, last ones you'll ever need. Manufactured in small custom runs, thus the high cost, that is not likely to do anything but get higher because of limited quantity runs and production cost on the rise. Depends on what the truck will be used for as to which one you should choose. If 4-wheeling is light, then the lesser quality may work ok for you. If you want the best of the best, Steve Fowler at power wagons west is where you get them. The terrain you operate in will determine whether you need shields, the older ones I've seen that someone mentioned are amateur workmanship at best. Good general idea, not a bad design idea either, although not pretty. The ball got dropped with machining and welding workmanship. No a piece you could use on a high end truck, and you really couldn't expect them to hold up very well if they came in contact with much of an obstacle. Certainly better than no protection at all, moderate to heavy brush could do them in.

Id like a set of dualmatics , just to cut the profile down. Ill never use them , I only drive on road but don't want them to be very noticeable.