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Hi guys. This weekend, I went ahead and atempted to replace the points on the distro with the new pertronics ignition setup I bought.

I did everything suggested, here and where ever else I could read about the procedure to make sure I didnt screw anything up.
I.E. I set the #1 cylinder to top dead center, remove the distro and didnt rotate the shaft noting the proper orientation. when I removed the cap, yes, the rotor was pointing at #1 position..

I did remove the front end sheet metal for easier access because I want to detail the engine compartment so I need more access, so removing the distro WAS easier.

taking the distro out was easy.. I just removed the vent lines, the plug wires, and loosend and removed the one screw holding it to the block

Put it all back together and the truck would NOT run smooth... Like it was so FAR out of time!

I tried changing the timing by rotating the disto and adjusting with the one screw holding it to the block..
Nothing changed..

Again, its like its SO FAR out of time now.. I dont get it...I checked all of the wires.. yes, they are going to the right positions.

So, after removing again, I noticed there is anotehr adjusting screw UNDER the distro body.

Is this where I can get more adjustment to set the time better?

I didnt touch it, cause I didnt find anywhere in the manual that this is an adjustment point.. Ony the one holding it to the block.

AND>. how the H**** does one get at that under side screw when the distro is installed to make adjustments!

WTH... this should have been easy... and it wasnt..

so, does anyone know if I should be making adjustments to the bottom side screw? Anyone have to adjust taht mucj after converting from the points to a electronic setup? All of the ones I did in the past on old jeep and other 1/2 ton ww2 dodges it ran just bu the replacement and NO major adjustments to the timing had to be made. it ran right off..

One last note:

I did notice that the one wire leading from the disto capacitor was very loose.. I took the capacitor out of the distributor and that wire came off...not sure if I broke it while removing it, or it was broken all along and the movement while removing it broke the wire off completly.

(I ordered another one today from one of the suppliers)

talking with the supplier who was very knowledgable, he seems to think that the wire being frayed/and or holding on with so little strands might have caused this running poorly, not the timing of it..

So will see before I make any drastic adjuments to the distro if this capacitor might have been adding to the issues all along.

stil would love to hear from others on their experience of the points to pertronix conversion how it went.. was it straight forward with no other big adjustments needed in your case or was it?

I replaced by points last year with the pentronix unit and had no issues, it seems to have helped out in my 1951 M37. Good luck with your issue. Kirk

GOOD MORNING, I TOO REPLACED MY POINTS WITH THE PETRONIX SWAP, NO PROBLEM. TRUCK RUNS GREAT. GOOD LUCK

I don't know whether you got your issue solved or not; however I'll pass this on for your reference and others who may need it. There is more than 1 Pertronix kit that has been marketed for the military distributor. Some vendors are still selling the early kits, which are more difficult for an unskilled person to install. These must be timed in relation to position of the module as it mounts on the plate and the shaft cam or you will run out of adjustment when turning the distributor to set the timing.

The later ones that are mounted on a plate are much easier for an unskilled person to install.

The question about the bolt under the distributor housing; no problem, if that gets you in the realm of correct timing, (4 degrees BEFORE TDC) by all means use it. Several issues can play into problems with correct timing adjustment. The more common ones are the fact that someone has installed the oil pump a tooth or 2 out of time with the cam. Excessive wear on the timing chain and sprockets will also cause the same issue you have described, as will distributor shaft and bushing wear. Usually when the timing sprockets and chain are worn along with distributor shaft and bushing wear; all this in combination makes it really hard or impossible to achieve correct timing until you repair the wear issues.