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I need to eventually remove and replace my steel fuel lines from the tank forward.

Tank recently relined with new in tank filter etc. Just didnt do the lines yet, and probably wont for a long time, BUT I am getting a tad bit of fine sediment in the carb bowl.. still... so I assume my lines are probably still full of rust on the inside walls.

Like i said, I want to replace the entire lines.. but not right now, so want a simple solution.

My solution: Cut the steel line at the tank and at the fuel pump and use ONE peice of gasoline resistant rubber hose.

I know, I know. Hokey at best, but its a good short term fix.

Anyone know the diameter of the outside of the fuel line going in to the tank?

( I THINK ITS 5/16" DIAMETER.... CAN ANYONE CONFIRM?)

I can then buy the proper inside diameter rubber hose and bring with me.

I should think 15 feet will work? or ya think more length? Ill route it along the original lines for now and tie wrap.

Hi Choppa,

Not hokey if it works! Another option is to temporarily seal one end of the fuel line, with caulk or 10 million small pieces of duct tape, etc., and fill the tube with Evapo-Rust. Let it sit overnight and drain. It'll come out black from all the dissolved rust. Repeat a second time and those line will be totally rust free inside. You only need a small bottle of Evapo, so it won't cost much either.

regards,
bob

evapo-rust eh? hummm. cant say as I have ever heard of the stuff.. sounds like a method to try...

can it be purchassed at a Auto zone, NAPA, or other local chain or do I have to order online?

so your saying you did this to the original lines left IN the truck rails? thats what I would need to do if I went this route and tried cleaning the old lines.

Hi Choppa,

I haven't done it on an M37, but I've done it on 2 Camaros and 2 442s. I've done it 2 ways......filled the lines up and let them sit overnight like I mentioned and continuously run Evapo thru the lines using an oil change catch bucket and a small electric fish tank pump. I used rubber lines attached to both ends of the fuel line to get to the catch bucket where I submerged the pump in Evapo. Evapo is re-useable, but you need more to do it the continuous way. I've also cleaned up a rusty crankshaft using Evapo....I bought a length of 6" PVC, glued on a end cap, put the crank in the tube, filled it with Evapo, stood it on end overnight..........and it came out looking brand new. I've bought it at AutoZone, Tractor Supply (cheapest), and Walmart.

regards,
bob

I just tried soaking my cylinder head in white vinegar overnight, to get the cooling system rust accumulation out of the passages. It came out like new casting. That may be more mineral deposits than oxidized iron?? I'll have to try the rust melt product you mentioned. Good Subject for all of us who like to play with old things!

Hi DCook,

Yeah, we've talked a lot about rust removal on here, and basically anything acidic (lemon juice, Coke, vinegar, even molasses) will work. Of course there's Muriatic Acid, ie., hydrochloric acid that will remove rust as well as the base metal itself. I've tried lots of things myself, the only thing I haven't tried is electrolysis....which I hope to get to soon. Evapo-Rust is really great stuff, but a bit pricey at $25 a gallon. It's reusable until it turns black, but really works well. I keep coming back to it whenever I want something rust free fast.

regards,
bob

well. I bought a quart of the Evapo-rust at Oreilly's auto last night. It comes in gallns as you say, and pricey, but if you got a store that carries the smaller quart size, its only like 8.99.

I bought the quart size to try cleaning that section of line as you suggested, W30bob

I think ill try just leaving the line installed in the frame! I guess you did this though

I think ill just open both ends,(near the gas tank and near the pet cock up by the fuel pump) blow out the existing fuel with compressed air, attach a rubber hose section to the end of the highest point (near gas tank side) and simply fill the entire section of steel line with the evapo-rust until it runs out near the lower end, the engine/fuel pump side....and let it sit the required 12 hours or so.

Blow out the lines and repeat.. and when done, blow out completly and see what happens.

Ill try this and see what the results can be.. after all, its all a hobby and if it dont work, I can always replace the line as planned. just looking for a little more time to use the existing lines!

Let us know how it works. It is possible, that with ALL the rust gone, the lines may leak through pin holes. That will confirm the need for new lines, and either way, you won't be fighting the contamination any more.

I'm gonna hijack this thread. I have a pressure regulator where the stock fuel filter was at the voltage regulator position. If I run new lines, do I need a flexible portion jumping from the frame mounted section to the body mounted regulator? The stock setup was this way, but I'd like to eliminate line coupling if possible. I will be using a nickel/copper line set.

Bob:
Thanks for the Evapo Rust tip. I've seen the product demonstrated on Sat. morning auto fix-it programs. The guy handles
the product without gloves and rinses with plain water.

I'm thinking of trying saturated towels of Evapo Rust on the floor boards while they are still in the truck.
Do you think it will work? Your thoughts please.

Jerry