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At the point were I need to get into the distributor. Not sure why this M series distro scares me. Maybe its the Unknown, maybe the complexity vs the older simple distributors with a couple of simple spring clips holding on the cap
Everything I ever worked on in the past had ONE cap, not an outer and an inner

In any case, I gotta open this distributor to remove the points and replace with the new pertronics ignition I have...to be honest I fear either breaking the outer cap, over tightneing the screws (Heard that over zealous torque is the main cause of outer caps cracking) or messing something up inside. I am just not experienced with these M series electronics to be comfortable. I have replaced enough points in the past on 6v and 12v jeeps and dodges. Not done a thing with M series before this truck.

Does anyone have any advise / procedure for / sequence of steps to take to open up the top and replace the points and inner cap?

Do I need to pull the disto completly out of the truck to do this? or can I do this in the truck.

I assume first step is to take off each spark plug wire, OR is it?....OR can I leave all wires in place on the outer cap and just take out the screws holding on the outer cap??

Once inside, what will I encounter? the inner cap.. is is secured with screws also? or clips? or??????

Does anyone have an exploded diagram of the distributor and can post this here for me? it would help immensely. or even pictures on the insides

thanks!

OH.. I can see that some previuos owner forgot to, or didnt tighten down, a few of the outer cap screws.. 2 of the upper outer cap screws are missing.

does anyone know the size of that screw so I can replaced/add when I am finished?

thank you.

I'll try and help as I did my first M dizzy a few months back. Here's what I did (that I remember!):
Put engine at #1 TDC
Clean the area at the base of the distributor.
Mark the block/dist. so you can install it in the same spot.
Mark and remove the wires at the dizzy.
Remove the electrical connector at the base of the distributor housing.
Not the orientation of the distributor and remove the clamp and pull the dist. assy.
Don't spin the shaft until you have marked it relative to the body.

I didn't have any trouble removing the outer cap, but did have some issues with the screws inside. I found a propane torch, candle wax, a small hammer, and good screwdriver sorted them out quickly.

Once inside the components are pretty "normal". I made sure to remove the felt, clean it, oil it, and install a 90 so I could add oil easily in the future. I also cleaned the housing very well and ensured that the coil made good contact with it so it would sink heat. I'd read they fry. I'm a fan of silicone dielectric compound so I applied that to the seals before buttoning it up. Once done I dropped the dizzy back in and checked the timing with an ohm meter (I have not made a pick up for my timing light that works on the M's wires yet.) I set the engine at 4 BTDC and rotated the dizzy until the points just opened and torqued the clamp. So far, so good.

Hope this helps!

Andy

thanks Andy. Yes that will help..good step by step

So I guess to just adjust or clean points one must remove the distro completly?

I am thinking I might make my life easier by removing the drivers side fender, inner sheild too, to access it all..

wouldnt I be able to lift to outer cap at that point without removing the entire distro? anyone reading this thread bypass removing the entire distributor and adjusting points ?

just wondering.

BTW.. have an exploded diagram of the distro you could post? or know of a link to one?

thanks again!

found this video on You tube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgUeMugX4NQ

I didn't pull the inner fender and our truck has no LH splash shield . I would remove the dizzy to do the points, it's really much easier to deal with. It may be helpful to pull the generator cable for access.

Don't fear pulling it, you can only put it back in one way so it will always be in time. Loosening the wires and vent lines is quicker than removing the inner fender and even then it is still a pain to get to.

The bottom bracket has two adjustment slots, just mark where the one holding it into the engine. Leave the one on the back of the dist alone.

Dennis