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Hi guys.

I decided I would attempt to rebuild my ETW1 carb myself. I have done this in the past on earlier dodge or Willy's jeep 1 barrel carbs, and they were definatly more simple.. with no governor either. this had more parts.

Anyway, after rebuilding the best I could, and putting it back on the truck, it did run better, but only when in the higher RPM state. and at NO load...

At idle, I am getting popping and missing at the exhaust, I obviuosly have got some thing wrong. Perhaps the float level? *( it did this before the build hence why I attempted to rebuild in the first place)

Another performance observation...at idle, and then a quick "punch" of the throttle, it wants to hesitate, or sounds like its dying or ready to quit, which indicates to me anyway that maybe there are still issues with the accelerator pump area of the workings..

So, the carb. this is what I did:

I got what appeared to be a very good quality repair kit with all the parts. I took it down to the point of where I felt comfortable. For instance. the bottom of the accelerator pump, there was a split ring, or spring, holding down the little check balls. I did NOT take that out, or the balls, as I could not see how I could do this with the tools I have.

I did clean every orrific I could get a can of carb cleaner into, and I couldnt see any place that I didnt spray into that did not shoot out somewhere. so I beleived I am good. But then again, I may still have clogged passages.

I see where the accelorator pump is activated via vaccumm, and its not mechanical, like past carbs I have worked on, so perhaps me not taking out every part resulted in a poor running truck. or at least that condition at a quick jab of the throttle leaves it wanting to choke out.

Second the float level. I didnt know the level or even how to set it, so left the float alone (now I remember back the truck always popped ocationaly at the exhaust, at certain times, not always. ) could a high choke level cause a popping at the exhaust at idle? it dont do this at higher RPM's so I feel maybe its not valve issues.. (I hope!!)

how is the float adjusted? hang the carb upside down and the measurments is how much, taken from what point, the edge of the carb body to the float as its suspended upside down? is this how its done?

lastly.. I had a small rubber "o" ring in the bottom of the step up piston... it didnt appear to be installed in any of the grooves on the brass step. looked like it was just in the bottom of the cavity that the step up piston goes into.

Is that correct? it just sits at the bottom of the cavity> if so, how in heck can that do anything to help the piston? I dont get it.how is it installed? in the bottom of that cavity?

last issue. I took for a quick spin, whick left me stranded luckily just on the dirt road near the cabin.

I hit a slight bump on the dirt road, and it just died.. No restarting. Out comes the mighty cletrac to haul up the hill and back home.

Let it sit a tad and it starts. dont know if I flooded it? didnt smell any abnormal gas that indicated a flooding occured... so not sure.

I am begining to wonder if the float level is WAY too high, causing flooding? that and the ocational pop at the exhaust. or is this a result of a float TOO low? not getting enough fuel?

any insight from those who do better at working on carbs would be appreciated.!!!??

(OR Ill just order a newly rebuilt carb from one of the many suppliers and be done with it!!!)

On a side note, I thought that maybe I was missing something, so I pulled and replaced EACH plug. I had them for awhile, waiting for the tiem to replace.. this seemed like a good time to at least eiminate that possibly being the issue. I gapped them to .025" and installed. Nope.. no change.

oh by the way:

I am attacking each peice of the trucks system individually, like the carb now (after relining the entire gas tank)

next would be to install the electonic ignition, but I wanted to make sure I didnt tear into too many individual parts. Fix one, then more on..

For all I know ,the points now in the trcuk are not gapped or set right. (maybe this causing the erradic idle?)

Like I said, just taking on one part of the system at a time.

I also dont know if the timing is correct. I have always "assumed" so as the truck does run decent at high RPM's, it the low idle "popping" and quick acceloration that I want to address.

BUT,. if anywone reading this and my symptoms see where perhaps what I am describing might very well be related to timing or points, or other issues, Ill be glad to listen!

thanks all.

You need to get the points and timing set correctly. It can be other things as well but this is where you need to start first. If you are still having the same problem after the carb rebuild than it most likely wasn't a carb issue. Also if the truck reached operating temperature, died and would not start until it cooled down than that's the sign of a bad coil. However make sure everything else is correct first before you start throwing parts at it.

When I bought my truck from a fire department, it had not run for several years. I got it going pretty quickly, but it was stall prone and flooded a lot. To the point of having standing gas puddles in the intake manifold. It also had no power. I knew I wanted a Pertronix ignition, and thought the carb needed a rebuild and cleaning, so I sent my parts off to M-series rebuild. While I might not have needed to do both, the truck runs really well now. I second what m-11 said.

I agree... after getting back home, I got to thinking about my past expereinces, same issues, etc and got to thinking about the points/condensor perhaps being the culprit as well.

well, I do have the pertronix already sitting in the garage, was going to attack that job next after the carb rebuild.

so I guess thats what I will do...

I ended up ordering a rebuilt carb from Midwest Military yesterday. I couldnt resist

wanted to eliminate that being the issue..and move on to the next culprit...

thanks guys.