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Well I finally got around to working on my generator last night. I had the armature tested, communtator (sp?) turned & polished, and I replaced the bearings. Now I need a little review in DC generators:

1. Can I bench test this big Autolite? If so,what would the readings be say at 3-5000RPM?
2. Facing the unit, do these run CW or CCW? Does it matter while testing?
2. After being apart for several months, will it have output on its own or does it need battery voltage to excite the field first?
I want to make sure its going to work before I bolt it on the engine. Thanks.

My son and I were amazed at how heavy the generator is - figured there must be a ton of copper in there - but we have determined that the mystery contained within will remain a mystery to us!! Be brave! Good luck!

Yes, I could probably scrap the generator and leave with enough money to convert to an alternator for the Dodge LOL

HingsingM37 wrote:Well I finally got around to working on my generator last night. I had the armature tested, communtator (sp?) turned & polished, and I replaced the bearings. Now I need a little review in DC generators:

1. Can I bench test this big Autolite? If so,what would the readings be say at 3-5000RPM?
2. Facing the unit, do these run CW or CCW? Does it matter while testing?
2. After being apart for several months, will it have output on its own or does it need battery voltage to excite the field first?
I want to make sure its going to work before I bolt it on the engine. Thanks.

To answer your questions,

(1) you can bench test any generator, but I don't know what your readings should be at any given speed;

(2) looking at the pulley end, it should turn clockwise;

(the other #2) a generator produces current by turning a loop of wire between the poles of a magnetic field. No magnetic field, no current generated. You will either need to have permanent magnets or a battery to excite the field before it will produce a current.

Thanks for the info. I found my manual pages which state it needs to be polarized first. Now my next question is will I hurt anything if I bolt it up and run it without anything connected? I want to test run my engine, and need the generator there for the fanbelt.

I don't think it would hurt anything to run it with no load, but it only takes a couple of seconds to polarize the generator. Add 2 or 3 minutes to hook all the wires back up, and you're done. No longer than all this takes, why risk it?

HingsingM37 wrote:Thanks for the info. I found my manual pages which state it needs to be polarized first. Now my next question is will I hurt anything if I bolt it up and run it without anything connected? I want to test run my engine, and need the generator there for the fanbelt.

No, it won't hurt it to operate disconnected, start her up.

Thanks guys. The reason I asked is I have no wiring to hook up yet, as my truck is completely apart. There is no electrical harness or equipment installed yet. Just the engine and drivetrain in the frame. I just have to hear the engine run before I move along:)

Ahhh! I see! You need a little "motivational experience," huh? Nothing like a running engine in a bare chassis to get the juices flowing again!

Yes. This is my first vehicle restoration/engine project in twenty years and I keep having nightmares: "Did I torque all the rod bolts?" "Did I install the rear main seal just right or will it puke oil?" "Did I torque the main caps correctly?" "Are all my flywheel bolts tight?" ect...ect..AHHHH I'll feel better once I hear her purrr