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Over half of my original head bolts had some degree of pitting on them so I decided to buy a new set from VPW. Their bolts are not the original design, but are a modern bolt with a 1/2 inch head. Looks like they may be from a small block chevy. When I measure the length of the grip or shank portion of the bolt, it is about .02" longer than the thickness of the cylinder head. The new gasket is .08" thick, but it will compress some and the bolt will stretch about .007" with 70 ft-lb of torque.

Assuming no gasket compression, this only leaves me with .053" of thread above the deck. This seems to be cutting it very close. It should work, but someone with a highly milled head and/or a thinner gasket could run into problems.

Does anybody have any experience with these bolts? How much can I expect the gasket to compress?


Thanks,

Chuck

NOS are available. I see them on ebay and some other suppliers should have them. VPW might have the NOS studs from the WW2 engines if you wnat ot go that way. studs are bit of a pain but work better and look better

GOOD MORNING, JOHN AT MIDWEST MIL HAS THE ORIGINAL. I JUST BOUGHT A SET FROM HIM.
BOB

I thought about using the studs, but for some reason just decided to go with the bolts. I also bought 3 of John's tapped head bolts for $4 each, but he wanted $7.50 each for the regular bolts so I took a pass on those.

I torqued the head down yesterday with no issues, so there is no turning back now. I torqued them in a single progression because the manual didn't specify multiple progressions. Hopefully this will be sufficient. I did go back over them a couple times after the initial pass.

Again, the VPW bolts look like they may be the mid-length bolts off a small block chevy head but I didn't have any lying around to compare with. If so, they can probably be had elsewhere for cheaper. They are definately made for another motor if not for a chevy.


Thanks,

Chuck

You can buy grade 8 head bolts at your local CARQUEST or any other supplier who deals in the Dorman product line. We get them there regularly, for a lot less $$ than has been mentioned in this thread. I can give you the part# when I'm at the shop. Great quality bolts, especially designed as head mounting bolts, just like the originals.

Thanks Charles,

Even though I've already torqued my head, I would like that part number so that I can take a look at those bolts.

Do you think that I will be OK having torqued the head with a single progression to 67 ft-lb rather than going 45 before full torque? I used the correct sequence and I went back over them a couple more times afterwards. The military manual doesn't mention using multiple progressions, but others have mentioned that it would be best.

LickskilletM37 wrote:Thanks Charles,

Even though I've already torqued my head, I would like that part number so that I can take a look at those bolts.

Do you think that I will be OK having torqued the head with a single progression to 67 ft-lb rather than going 45 before full torque? I used the correct sequence and I went back over them a couple more times afterwards. The military manual doesn't mention using multiple progressions, but others have mentioned that it would be best.

675-060 is the Dorman part#.

Concerning torque, my habits with torqueing almost everything are to start low and work up. Many instances over the years, I've found obviously incorrect specs printed in manuals. At times I've read incorrectly or been on the wrong line on the torque spec chart, etc. Starting low and progressively working up most times will cause me to rethink before making a fatal error and breaking something. I've done it enough to realize when something doesn't feel right.

MSeriesRebuild wrote:

LickskilletM37 wrote:Thanks Charles,

Even though I've already torqued my head, I would like that part number so that I can take a look at those bolts.

Do you think that I will be OK having torqued the head with a single progression to 67 ft-lb rather than going 45 before full torque? I used the correct sequence and I went back over them a couple more times afterwards. The military manual doesn't mention using multiple progressions, but others have mentioned that it would be best.

675-060 is the Dorman part#.

Concerning torque, my habits with torqueing almost everything are to start low and work up. Many instances over the years, I've found obviously incorrect specs printed in manuals. At times I've read incorrectly or been on the wrong line on the torque spec chart, etc. Starting low and progressively working up most times will cause me to rethink before making a fatal error and breaking something. I've done it enough to realize when something doesn't feel right.

I agree with both you guys. I always work my way up not because manuals tell me but because it makes sense.