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So I've decided to take on another project..

I got this 1958 M37 to use as parts, but decided it was too nice to part out, and I'm a gutton for punishment.

It has no title, but I'm working on that now. I have begun to dismantle and take inventory, but won't spend any money on it until the title issue is taken care of.

A lot of work to do, but everyone likes pics, so I'll share these. Updates will be very slow, and will mainly consist of dumb questions. I'm in over my head.

Plans:
318/360 with auto trans from a wrecked truck that I buy
Will figure out Tcase at that time (stock M37 or from the 318 drivetrain)..depends on space
Fix brakes (new lines and cylinders)
tires
fix the doors/windows so that all works smooth
new gauges (just enough to drive)
new weatherstrip (just enough to drive)
and of course stopping the rust and welding up holes in cab and bed
need tailgate and bumper (was a winch truck but the winch and all the parts for it have been taken for other projects)
color?

lookin good! id clearcoat it and keep the patina

Oneman,

That's great that another one gets saved!!! Most of us are in the same boat regarding restoration.....time and money.....and the lack of both!

And the only dumb question is the one that doesn't get asked........you're talking to an expert on dumb questions.

regards,
bob

Tuko,
You're right on, I was scrolling down through the pics thinking clear coat that thing. Looks like a good project onemanarmy.

Brett

I like the idea of clear coating it...there are some tough rust spots that may prevent me from keeping the patina on the whole truck.

Working on getting the title issue resolved...work should start soon.

OK...so never enough time (and money) so not much has happened

should have the title issues sorted out by weeks end, so that will speed up the process

Questions:

I want to get this thing running with the bare minimum of things. I'm thinking a carb 318/360 and manual trans (or maybe an auto, depends on what kind of deal I can find on CList) I've heard the 318/360 can use the factory engine mounts....this true?

What will need to be done to the trans to mate it to the t case? And does anyone know if this will allow the t case to stay in the factory location? This would be ideal obviously.

I need to go through the brakes....are there any tips/tricks/interchangeable parts that make that job easier?

Thanks in advance.

I would suggest the 360 (or larger) with the stock M37 transmission and longer civilian pilotshaft & housing or modified pilot bushing to compensate for short military pilotshaft & housing. I put a 318 in my 37 back in the late 60's, but due to the 318's anemic power, replaced it with a big block Chevy after about a year. Stock Tcase in stock location will work fine. The 318/360 will require fabrication of new motor mount supports, and I suggest a hydraulic clutch driven by the stock clutch pedal with lower extension added to reverse the direction of travel. The new clutch master cylinder mounts beside the stock brake master cylinder. The installation is quite simple. Keep the transmission in the stock location so that the 4wd, low range, and PTO levers will remain in the stock location. I would NOT install an automatic.

I just did my brakes except replacing the steel lines (slated for next Spring). If you have the funds I'd recommend replacing everything: MC, wheel cylinders, steel lines, flex lines, have the drums turned and install new shoes. Power bleeding will also be required to ensure there is no air in the lines upon reassembly. Also replace the compression washers where the blocks attach to the wheel cylinders.

Apply liberal amounts of penetrating oil to the top adjusters, bleeders, bottom cam nuts, WC mounting bolts and the MC bolts. Use 6 point sockets or wrenches to remove all bolts, and work each bolt in both directions so you don't snap them off. Plan on using heat as necessary to free up the flex lines where they connect to the steel lines-be mindful that any penetrating oil previously applied could catch fire, so keep your fire extinguisher within easy reach.

Please keep us posted on your progress-glad to see you've resumed working on it!
Gary

Thanks for the replies

So I can use the M37 trans behind a 360? What adapters are needed for this? Was the trans hydraullic actuated when new? (haven't paid too much attention to that yet, I had in my mind that I would need a new trans)

thanks for the info on the brakes. When I track down some NDTs to be mounted, I'll be tackling the brakes.

You'll need a Dodge V8 bellhousing. No engine/transmission adapter needed. You will have to relocate one transmission bolt hole in the bell housing. The stock clutch linkage is mechanical, not hydraulic.
You will need a longer civilian pilotshaft and housing, and/or a modified pilotshaft bushing to make up the length difference in the bellhousing. It took me about 3 days to do the installation, it's not difficult. However, it has been 50 years since I did it, so I don't remember every detail in detail. I used a Plymouth brake master cylinder mounted backwards for the clutch master cylinder. I cocked the engine slightly to increase the oil pan clearance from the front pumpkin.

Interesting. Found a few more posts one the subject for further review.

I'm not sure if finding a civilian trans or a NP435 will be that easy. Would a 318/NP435 combo be too long?
What trucks was the NP435 installed in? What would I need to swap into the newer trans to still be able to use the stock t case?

Just weighing the options.
Thanks again.

Why would you want a civilian transmission?
I kept the military transmission, as being the easy solution.
Do you not have one?

Speaking from experience, the 318 is not enough engine for the 37. Lacking in both power and torque.

Oh I'm not set on anything, just thinking out loud

I have the original drivetrain. No idea of its condittion. You mentioned I needed civilian pieces of the trans to work with the 318/360. Wouldn't it just be easier to get a complete civilian trans (NP420) or just get a 318/NP435 compbo out of a newer Dodge pickup?

And not set on a 318 either, a 360 or larger is fine. Just want something that will bolt in close to the stock location (I'm ok with some modifications for fitment) and if I need to track down another trans for parts, I'd just rather track down a complete trans and not have to do any internal tear down.

I've never driven an M37. Is the factory engine more powerful (or have more useful power) than a carb'd 318?

or am I off?

Thanks

The 318 has a little over twice the power of the stock engine. That's not enough - it's a heavy truck.
Before you try to mount a civilian transmission, check the location of the mounting bolt holes for the 4wd and low range levers and the location of the PTO housing.

Keep in mind that the jackshaft between the PTO and the LU-4 goes through a small frame hole that doesn't have a lot of clearance, so you can't reposition stuff around very much. Toughest part of the whole job is finding enough clearance for the dual exhausts.. That's why the install took me 3 days.

JimC wrote: Toughest part of the whole job is finding enough clearance for the dual exhausts..

Straight up through the hood, bubba style