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Or pulling apart the cooling system and finding that the thermostat was probably the wrong one for who knows how long. I'll load pictures here after I get back from Autozone to get a bolt to block a port on the new water pump.

I other news, the distribution tube is still good, and the radiator is still in good shape it seems, even though it looks to be the original.

****edit****


NAPA 160 on left
Fulton Syphon 160 right

Still not staying below 200* when doing over 35. Is this normal? I hope not, I'm thinking the radiator may be do for a recore, now to just find a shop to do it by Friday.

If I'm unable to do that, are there any suggestions for a temporary rad that'll work until I can get mine recored?

Are you sure your water pump is pushing enough fluid? Sometimes they'll act normal but won't circulate fluid. Sorry I can't help on the temp radiator-mine had a tacked-in foreign car radiator when I got it-little bitty thing, and leaked, too.
Gary

GOOD MORNING, Have you used a non contact thermometer to verify your dash reading? I would do that first then run it w/o a thermostat and do it again, see what you come up with. My M, w/o the thermostat runs about 100 deg.
BOB

The dash gauge actually reads quite accurately. How do I check the pump to make sure its pushing water?

I might just try no thermostat here soon as well, unless there's anything like muriatic acid are similar I can use to knock back the rust in the rad.

Hi Jimmy,

Normally in a car the way you check to make sure the water pump is working is to take off the radiator cap, start the car, and wait for the thermostat to open. Once it does you should see water circulating in the radiator thru the cap hole on top at a pretty brisk rate. No flow and something's wrong. Or if your not sure if the thermostat is functioning, just remove it and then start the truck and look in the radiator cap hole. You should see flow immediately.

In regards to cleaning the radiator........I'm not really sure what they use at the radiator shops.....but Muriatic acid is some strong stuff. It's just another name for hydrochloric acid and I don't think it's very kind to brass or copper, not to mention solder. I was told by a vendor at a meet last year that the easiest way to clean the box of rusty bolts I just bought from him was to soak them in Muriatic acid. So I went to Lowes, bought a jug and soaked the bolts. Came back a few hours later to check on the bolts and they were GONE. As in eaten away. Now I just dip bolts in it for 30 to 60 seconds at a time. Nasty stuff.

Another thought comes to mind. Did you ever read the note on the VPW parts page regarding the cooling system? Just FYI.......Here's what it says;

Quick Tip 8: Thermostat Installation

What do I need to know when installing a new thermostat?

Drill a 1/32” hole in the top plunger (the piece that opens) of the
thermostat towards the outer lip. This allows for circulation before
the thermostat opens, reducing deposits in your cooling system and
reducing the possibility of pressure build-up. This also helps bleed
air from the system, reducing the chance of air pockets which can
create hot spots in the engine. Don’t forget to replace the thermostat
housing gasket.

regards,
bob

regards,
bob

I've never seen flow across my radiator opening, frack. I probably do have air in the system.

I'll see where removing the thermostat gets me after work, I should have two 180* NOS ones coming in from Midwest, along with a water tube that'll be prepped for long term storage.

I think I might see about a 75 Dodge reman until I can get the stocker recored.

I had a similar overheating issue and it was the head gasket. It would idle all day with no problem but the minute you drove it. . It would overheat in less than a quarter mile. I had straight water in it and it was, sort of white looking from bubbles being in it. My 2 cents.
Mark

I'm not getting any milk on the dip stick.

But now it's not running either

That is why I mentioned it... I didn't either, and it didn't smoke. There was a small section craced between two cylinders that allowed combustion gas to go to a water jacket but no water in oil and if you let it idle... it would all day and not over heat. When I took the head off, the piece of gasket fell out.

Just thought I would mention it because it was a little out of the ordinary.

Good luck getting fire back to it. I know how frustrating it can be when things snowball.

Mark

Almost ready to through the towel on taking it on a cross desert trip. Need to see if the local auto stores have that gasket.

Got it working again. With just plain water and no thermostat, stayed below 200* at the high rpm range for 3rd. Letting it cool and I'm going to throw a NOS 180*er in and fill'er with good ole 50/50.