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As the title says, new hubs are on order. I have never changed out hubs, or worked on an axle for that matter. After I pull the stock hubs out, what should I be looking out for? Are there any particular parts which I should have on hand, such as seals or bearings? I think this should be a pretty simple thing to do after checking it out on the internet. Any helpful tips for me? Thanks

John

good buy! you will notice a big improvement in the drive-ability of the truck. less vibrations, better mileage and easier steering.
there is only a flange gasket(2)to be dealt with, bearings and seals are farther in and require a special 8 sided socket to undo the wheel bearing nut(3). it can be done with a chisel and hammer but don't. check and make sure you can not undo the nut(3) by hand. your wheel bearings should be checked, repacked with grease and properly torqued
the only hard part about swapping hubs is an open ended wrench is required to put on the selectros. I put a bit of grease on the splines and some hub oil in the hub.

Rms, thanks for the info and that drawing. Is it a common sized open ended wrench needed for the install?

9/16th wrench is required to undo the stock hub flange nuts on my truck.

the only down side to running lock out hubs i have experienced and heard of is the splines on the front drive shaft slip yoke "wears like a bastard".

does anyone know why this happens?

I thought it was going to be some hard to find open end wrench or something. The hubs showed up today, and it looks like a simple install. I did not know how the mechanism worked, but now it is easy to see.

RMS wrote:9/16th wrench is required to undo the stock hub flange nuts on my truck.

the only down side to running lock out hubs i have experienced and heard of is the splines on the front drive shaft slip yoke "wears like a bastard".

does anyone know why this happens?

I find that very hard to believe. With the hubs locked out, the front shaft doesn't even turn. With the hubs in, it turns just as it would without the lock out hubs. Sounds like something else going on, maybe slop in the companion flange(s) or a very badly out of balance shaft, maybe bad u-joints.

WarrenD wrote: I find that very hard to believe. With the hubs locked out, the front shaft doesn't even turn. With the hubs in, it turns just as it would without the lock out hubs. Sounds like something else going on, maybe slop in the companion flange(s) or a very badly out of balance shaft, maybe bad u-joints.

that's what i thought, but apparently it is also common on early landrovers. the only thing i can come up with is that it doesn't turn, it rides in the same place until its engaged.
what im thinking is the m37 has 16 course splines witch don't provide much surface area. the suspension travels up and down, the yoke slides in and out and the weigh of the driveshaft rides on the same few splines.

Installing the hubs was a piece of cake. Just a light greasing with wheel bearing grease and they bolt right on. Low speed turning is easier, and I picked up a few mph on a couple of hills I have to drive up around here. I did expect more of a positive indent engaged and disengaged though.

I would like to know what you paid for them and where you bought them. Been sitting on the fence long enough.
Thanks,
Wolf.

I bought them from Tom at Snake River 4x4. $275 plus $13 shipping