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First of all, I want to once again thank everyone here who posted something and for their thoughts and especially their prayers for me and my family over the recent loss of our 14 year old daughter. Everything mentioned was very appreciated. I plan on personally thanking each of you for your kind expressions of sympathy. She was a very special girl to her daddy. In memory of her I plan on naming the truck after her. She never had an opportunity to join me in my restorations as her accident happened in 2001 about 6 years before I began this chapter in my life.

I have actually gotten a little time to start back on the bed and have painted it yesterday and to me the results are sadly disappointing. I chose Gillispie 23070 as the paint. I painted in 91 degree temps with humidity at 53%. Most of the parts turned out ok, but the first 2 components that I painted were the bed sides (outside surface) and they turned out way too glossy and a sick green color as shown in the photos below. The best photo that most representws the color they turned out is the last photo. Any ideas what happened? If they are no better in the morning when I get in from work, I plan on sanding the sides down and trying again. Why would these 2 parts turn out different than the rest of the bed? Mind you, these photos are taken inside with floursecent lights as well as some 100 watt regular bulbs. If I do decide to sand the bed sides down, how long do I hve to wait for the paint to cure and what are the procedures to sand fresh paint down to repaint? Thanks in advance for your help.



If the photos don't show up I have posted them in my restoration group on the next to the last page.

I don't sand between coats, I use a Scotchbrite pad, they have several different "grits" in the home store. I like the fine as the coarser ones leave digs. Not sure about the Gillispie but the Randolf I used on my truck said recoat within 6 hours or after 3 days.
I think the gloss comes from the hardener. I had my rims painted and they came out way to glossy and off-color. I used spray cans on my truck but got a gallon of the same paint (same FS, same manufacturer) and the difference seems to be in the way it was applied. My truck is 24087 semi-gloss and I found that distance from the spray nozzle to the part and how heavy the application was both came into play in trying to get an even finish in both luster and color. Paint color does change as it cures so it might not hurt to wait a few days and see how it looks then.

After getting home the color actually looks good. My only regret now is not taking more time sanding the prior coats of paint. Every imperfection shows. I plan on reassembling the bed and maybe doing a little touch up work to diminish this some. I found a couple of spots that are a little thin, but every place that will be hard to get to was given extra paint. I also plan on using the 3M mastic strips that I found out about on here. After completely reassembled, I will give it a final coat. Any comments on the pics or my ideas are greatly appreciated.
Phillip

It really depends on what look you are going for. If it's a brand-new-off-the -assembly line look, then you need to be a lot fussier. I didn't go that route, I went with what the military would have done in service in the field. They would not have sanded things to bare metal, primed and painted but rather sand the rusty spots and touch up with maybe a quick spray job for the entire truck.
In the end, you are the one who has to be happy with what is done. I'm happy with my paint job, rattle cans over dents etc. Truck looks like it just came thru a time warp out of Nam. The paint flaws are only visible on close inspection and I'm usually the only one who sees them!

I'm not sure what your statement about no prior sanding meant, however if you didn't sand any to smooth and completely deglaze the surface of the old paint, the larger disappointment will likely be later when issues pop up related to the paint not adhereing well to the substrate. Paint must have a suitable substrate it can bite into to adhere well and stay put. If you do decide to sand and repaint any of the surfaces that you just recently painted, I'd strongly suggest at least 30 days of curing before starting to sand. Paint cures from the top down; what may seem to sand fine off the top, will soon turn sticky as more of the new paint is removed. 2 issues will evolve out of sanding before the cure is complete; 1-it's impossible to sand uncured paint and achieve a decent finish because it will clog your sand paper rapidly, 2-spraying fresh paint onto a substrate that isn't fully cured will cause any uncured paint to curl and lift just as if you put paint remover on it. The solvent used to reduce the paint for spraying is the cause of a chemical reaction that will cause lifting to take place.

The desired end product you are looking for is what you must prep for. As you know, we do many high end paint jobs on trucks here at M Series; an untold number of hours goes into all stages of prep work to support that high quality result on the end product such as the "BUDD" project that is featured on our website. We are currently working on a civilian power wagon project that is going to be an orange and brown color combination; it has well over 1,000 man hours of repair and prep to support that end result paint job.

Thanks Charles. You are a wealth of information. Think I will just put it back together and see how it looks. I will for sure take more time on the cab. That way if I have to redo it, it will only be the bed sides. One other thing. If I chose to apply a final coat once the bed is assembled, will I have to wait the 30 days and lightly sand to give the last coat something to adhere to?

Phillip

25, 40 hour weeks to prep and paint a truck? I would be looking for a faster body man!

DJ wrote:25, 40 hour weeks to prep and paint a truck? I would be looking for a faster body man!

Obviously you don't have a clue or any experience with real high end, show quality workmanship or what it takes to achieve it. If you had the M37 with the absolute most perfect body that ever was, it would require many hours before it could support a show quality job as M37's were not originally designed with that in mind, thus many flaws must be corrected during the process. Have you ever seen an M37 core truck that was that good? Neither have I, therefore it will always require massive body repair and prep to get that kind of an end outcome. If you ever get the opportunity, you should check out 1 of our show quality trucks. Only then will you get my drift.

I'm not saying the average M37 owner would be likely to want one taken to this point, however we have some clients that do. It's all about what a customer wants, we have the in house capability to take a truck to whatever point they may desire, both mechanically and with appearance.

snowdad wrote:Thanks Charles. You are a wealth of information. Think I will just put it back together and see how it looks. I will for sure take more time on the cab. That way if I have to redo it, it will only be the bed sides. One other thing. If I chose to apply a final coat once the bed is assembled, will I have to wait the 30 days and lightly sand to give the last coat something to adhere to?

Phillip

I would suggest waiting at least 30 days from the time the last paint was applied before sanding for another coat, unless you have access to curing equipment that greatly speeds the curing process, which will change the time drastically. In prepping for an additional final coat, I'd wet sand with 800 grit paper to a precise finish, thoroughly clean all surfaces, final prep, and paint. Adding a little extra reducer, 8% - 10% will assure the paint lays down smoother and will give you a better end job.

Thanks Charles. I am using Gillispie and V, M, &P Naptha is what is called for. Is this the reducer you are talking about? Sorry, but I am immensely ignorant of painting and it's associated terms.
Phillip

snowdad wrote:Thanks Charles. I am using Gillispie and V, M, &P Naptha is what is called for. Is this the reducer you are talking about? Sorry, but I am immensely ignorant of painting and it's associated terms.
Phillip

I never liked the VMPN; I don't recall the product that we liked better at this moment, but it is much better for hot weather use. Gillespie is the best of the lower end military substitute paints, so I would stick with that. I'll talk with my paint guy first chance I get. I've almost stopped painting myself; too much other stuff to look after.