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The time has come to tackle the larger jobs on the truck, I was cruising along and for the 3rd time the V8 has flamed out but this time spectacularly so I have to strip the engine in-chassis, tidy up little faults along the whole driveline and finally fit the dual circuit MC and power steering box. I will also have to locate some good tyres as the ones I have are only good for a trailer from now on, I think I'll source Bartreads as there is almost no other option here unless I get tubeless rims made up.
So, has anyone got a guide to 318 LA block rebuilding and if so, is it in .PDF form?

Best Regards - MM

The M880's had 318's in them-could you get a depot-level TM and go that route?
Just a thought,
Gary

MM,

I can't wait to see the pictures of this rebuild. Sorry I can't offer any advice on the 318 rebuild.

Bert

Tony I have a Chiltons manual in book form that covers rebuilding the 1967-1988 318 series engines that I don't need since my M882 sold recently, it's yours if you want it.

Carter wrote:Tony I have a Chiltons manual in book form that covers rebuilding the 1967-1988 318 series engines that I don't need since my M882 sold recently, it's yours if you want it.

Sounds good Carter, you had better PM Me and let me know what the cost is and I'll fix you up for it ASAP!!
Thanks guys, I will be posting pics, it's not as good a rebuild as some but it'll be fairly thorough from a mechanical point of view

Best Regards - MM

I am about to pull the heads as these are the results I got on compression plus I will check the bottom end based on the oil pressure reading, leaking seals and a personal need to do the job right 1st time.

Cyl------ cold ----- hot ----- Hot with Oil in bore
1 ------- 150 ----- 125 ----- 135
2 ------- 155 ----- 150 ----- 155
3 ------- 125 ----- 110 ----- 120
4 ------- 125 ----- 120 ----- 125
5 ------- 130 ----- 125 ----- 135
6 ------- 155 ----- 140 ----- 150
7 ------- 125 ----- 135 ----- 140
8 ------- 135 ----- 150 ----- 160

Low compression plugs show a black anode, higher compression plugs show a nice brown anode.
Oil Pressure at idle 25psi.
at 3000Rpm 35psi

Engine temp 180 Degrees F (one Good thing so far )

So I'll go rip the bugger apart nowand check everything....

Best Regards - MM

OK, I have the top end of the engine stripped, the heads don't look too bad but the valve stem seals are shot and the centre exhaust port facings are eroded so it looks like these have to be sent to the shop if the valves need re-seating, if not, I can do the re-co myself.
The pistons have only minor play in the bore and lipping is very minimal so now I will sit down with the books, decide wether or not to refresh or rebuild the engine as a rebuild is the best option a refresh (rings and bearings) may be more viable given the low K's the truck does and the fact the engine core is pretty good. The water galleries were quite clean but the timing chain cover was eroded to the point of near faliure so it's a given that the cover has to be replaced.
Anyway, more homework to do once I get the bottom off it and I must post pictures or I am sure somebody will stir me up for not doing so

Best Regards - MM

Sounds like you Dodge'd a larger bullet, looking forward to seeing your progress. I am becoming more involved w/my M as we type.
Regards To All,

Maybe so Bruce but Carter's excellent advice on a tanked, bored and clean rebuild has a lot of merit so I will take the pan off today, mic up the crank if I can get the time and go from there but I am leaning towards ripping the block out and get that done first. I also aim to drop the jackshaft, driveshafts, gearbox and maybe? even the transfer case today. I would like to drop the diffs too but that may be a bit optomistic given all the other stuff that goes on around here over the course of a day (friggin madhouse some days )
I will mainly be checking each part for wear (glittery oil etc.), seal condition, backlash and any problems that may be hard to spot whilst installed on the vehicle.
I will be quite blackened by this afternoon as when the engine "let go" it has thrown the rear main seal out and managed to coat pretty well everything under the vehicle with some tasty, smelly blackened engine oil, Yummy!!

Best Regards - MM

Monkey Man wrote:Maybe so Bruce but Carter's excellent advice on a tanked, bored and clean rebuild has a lot of merit so I will take the pan off today, mic up the crank if I can get the time and go from there but I am leaning towards ripping the block out and get that done first. I also aim to drop the jackshaft, driveshafts, gearbox and maybe? even the transfer case today. I would like to drop the diffs too but that may be a bit optomistic given all the other stuff that goes on around here over the course of a day (friggin madhouse some days )
I will mainly be checking each part for wear (glittery oil etc.), seal condition, backlash and any problems that may be hard to spot whilst installed on the vehicle.
I will be quite blackened by this afternoon as when the engine "let go" it has thrown the rear main seal out and managed to coat pretty well everything under the vehicle with some tasty, smelly blackened engine oil, Yummy!!

Best Regards - MM

YUMMY!

I have made some progress but this is the engine stripping section, I have some of the drivetrain pulled down but I need to source seals before I go any further with it, enjoy looking at my mess.........and yes, before anyone asks, my truck is right hand drive hence the steering box not being where it should be.

Best Regards - MM

MM,

Looks like you are in for a good, fun project. I have not built a small block Chrysler engine since my 340 in high school. If you were not so far I'd come by to help. Of course I have yet to make it an hour up the road to visit K8ICU let alone across the world. How is parts availability for you on US engines? Do you have parts stores that stock items? Enjoy. Keep us posted and thanks for the pics.

D

Tony, have you picked up the spare engine we spoke about, if so what condition is it in?

I am picking it up tonight Carter, I will then spin it, do compression and oil pressure tests and like we discussed and if it's passable it'll go in leaving me able to rebuild the origonal at my leisure, if not, the origonal unit get's patched up for now and the spare get's rebuilt. I will look at the cross refrerence list later and get ready to order the seals for the drivetrain....
All this in between family, work and hobby commitments..... Fun, Fun Fun......

Best Regards - MM

I had a busy weekend, didn't get a chance to play with the other engine but got the drag links removed, found the bush in the drag link pivot is stuffed so I have to source one of those, found I have had a water leak in 1 of my front hubs but a bonus is my lower knuckle bearings are good since I installed the lower grease nipples to keep them lubed and clean .
I drained the diffs, pulled the axles and got things prepped for the modifications.
Q: the fuel and brake line fittings appear to be the same size and thread?
I noticed this after removing the joiners for the rear mounted fuel pump and even after blowing the lines out with compressed air to get it all back to the tank I still managed to wear a reasonable Volume of fuel. (I did have a fire extinguisher under there with me because you just never know......)
The Diffs come out tonight if all goes well

Best Regards - MM