g741.org

Over a year ago my started went down. Got a replacement but took a long time to get it back together. One thing led to another, needed a couple spark plug cables which powerwagontim came through for me and put the cables and new plugs on, changed the oil and filter. Put 2 -51R batteries in today after the 22nf ones that autozone sent were 3 years old and dead. Anyway, the engine cranks fine, but I don't smell any gas and it doesn't start. Do I, pour a little gas into the carb or would you try ether? My next move will be to drain the fuel tank, I had put fuel preservative in it before storing. Any suggestions/ideas would be appreciated.

rtquig wrote:Over a year ago my started went down. Got a replacement but took a long time to get it back together. One thing led to another, needed a couple spark plug cables which powerwagontim came through for me and put the cables and new plugs on, changed the oil and filter. Put 2 -51R batteries in today after the 22nf ones that autozone sent were 3 years old and dead. Anyway, the engine cranks fine, but I don't smell any gas and it doesn't start. Do I, pour a little gas into the carb or would you try ether? My next move will be to drain the fuel tank, I had put fuel preservative in it before storing. Any suggestions/ideas would be appreciated.

I Myself would not USE Ether To many things go Bad to QUICK ! Try and have someone check the cab bowl when you are starting it to see if gas is getting to that point if not disconnect the fuel line before the fuel pump and see if you might have fuel to that point .

I pulled the fuel line to the carb and no gas is getting there. I'll have to trace back. I read in the manual that it says to blow out the lines with air. I'll read that again and see exactly how to do it.

I would check the diaphragm in the fuel pump... the new blends of gasoline with ethanol can rot out the rubber.. so if it was sitting in there for the year... you never know,

I'll check that, thanks. Low ethanol fuel here only 15% when they have it. I'm thinking I have to drain the fuel tank disconnect the lines and blow them out.

The rubber line bits may have collapsed inward, restricting flow. When in doubt, toss the line
out & replace with new.

'Tanner'

Sonds like a clog somewhere (assuming you have enough fuel in the tank). Trace your line back toward the pump, fuel filter (if you have one) and back to the pick-up tube in the tank-hopefully you won't have to go that far.
Let us know how it works out,
Gary

Thanks guys, all good suggestions.

E15 that's 1+ years old should be completely drained and flushed out.

I would drain into a clean container to see what actually comes out of the tank and lines. You will be better prepared to address the repair once you see what contaminates you are up against.

I would replace any rubber lines and rebuild the fuel pump. I would also double check the oil in the crankcase since you just changed it. If the diaphragm in the pump leaked gas back into the crankcase while you were trying to start it, you will need to change the oil and filter again.

Bert

I just change the oil yesterday, and since no fuel is coming out of the line to the carb, I don't think the oil is contaminated.

HELLO. BEING THE LAZY PERSON THAT I AM, I ALWAYS TROUBLESHOOT FIRST THE THINGS THAT ARE EASY TO FIX. SOME M37, (INCLUDING MINE) HAVE A FUEL PETCOCK ON THE HARDLINE PRIOR TO THE FUEL PUMP. DOES YOURS HAVE IT? IS IT OPEN? REGARDING THE QUALITY OF THE STORED FUEL, I AGREE WITH WHAT THE OTHER PEOPLE HERE SAID, HOWEVER THIS IS NOT YOUR ISSUE. YOU GET "NO" FUEL WHATSOEVER, REGARDLESS QUALITY AND FLAMABILITY AS FAR AS I UNDERSTOOD. SO I WOULD CHECK BOTH PASSAGE OF THE HARDLINE AS WELL AS FUEL IN THE TANK. EASIEST WAY TO DO THIS. GET AN AIRPUMP LIKE THOSE USED TO INFLATE BIKE TIRES. ATTACH TO THE FUELLINE PRIOR TO YOUR FUELPUMP. START PUMPING AIR, AND IF THE LINE IS CLOGGED, PRESSURE WILL BE BUILT UP. HAVE SOMEONE WITH GOOD HEARING NEAR YOUR FUEL TANK. IF THERE IS FUEL ENOUGH IN THERE, BUBBLES WILL BE HEARD FROM THE COMPESSED AIR.IF NOT, THEN YOU NEED TO ADD FUEL. IF THE LINE IS CLEAR, AND FUEL EXISTS, THEN REPEAT THE PROCESS IN THE LINE FROM THE FUEL PUMP TO THE CARB. IF CLEAR, THEN YOU MAY HAVE 2 ISSUES. EITHER BAD FUEL PUMP, OR A LEAK SOMEWHERE ALLONG THE LINE. I WOULD CHECK FOR THE LEAK FIRST. REMOVE THE SMALL COVER FROM THE TRUCK'S BED ABOVE THE FUEL TANK, AND DISCONNECT THE FUEL LINE (THE WIDER FROM THE TWO). PLUG ITS ONE END SHUT, AND COMPRESS A COUPLE PSI AIR IN IT. IT WILL "CONFESS" WHERE ITS LEAKING RIGHT AWAY. IF THAT SHOWS NO LEAK, THEN IT IS THE FUEL PUMP BY 99.9%. I DO NOT KNOW HOW MUCH A REBUILD KIT GOES FOR THESE DAYS, BUT IT IS A RELATIVELY EASY FIX, WITHOUT NEEDING SPECIAL TOOLS. REGARDING FUEL CONTAMINATION IN OIL, DO NOT BE SO SURE. I HAD MY PUMP FAIL ON ME, THE DIAPHRAGM GOT TORN, AND THE PUMP WAS SENDING GAS TO THE GARB, OIL PAN, WIPERS PUMP, AND OUTSIDE THE ENGINE CORE. SO PERHAPS, THAT MAY BE WHERE YOUR MISSING GAS GOES. GOOD LUCK FRIEND

This is a picture of my fuel tank contents, the in-tank filter, and the results of blowing out the line up to the stop cock at the fuel pump. Looks like the filter does its job.

YUK! Looks like you need to get the tank cleaned out. In the long run it will be better to clean the tank anyway. You might as well just go through the whole fuel delevery system and make sure it's squeaky clean.... your truck will thank you!

All good information, I will work on it again this weekend. My first task will be to hook a clear line to the gas tank petcock and see what the fuel looks like (stale I'm sure and should be drained anyway. I'll pull the plate in the bed and see what the lines look like with some air blown through, I guessing 3-4 psi will be plenty. Fuel pump rebuilt, I'll have to read up in the manual. Thanks again guys.

rtquig,

It looks like you are on the right path now.


Snowdad,

It looks like a good time to have your gas tank Renu done.

Bert