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What would the paint color have been for a 1953 M-37 such as mine? I was under the impression it would have been the 24070 OD, but upon looking at several locations that the OD is still in place it is very obvious that it is WW 2 lusterless OD. Any suggestions/ideas? I want this truck to be my 2012 project. When weather clears I plan on getting started on it. Thanks in advance.
Phillip

Should be semi-gloss. Up to 55 or so OD 2430 (closest off the shelf match today is 23070) semi-gloss. After the 55 era the Army went with 24087 semi-gloss OD.

Thanks Cuz. Any reason why it would have been painted 319 or such?

A million and one reasons why it has 319 on it. First off are you looking at the pait that is original like under the data plates or behind some other part that you unbolt? Or are you finding that color after the may layers of civilian paint that the fire department or the county enginers painted the truck? The reason I ask is that if it is the original color that is under another part that hasn't been touch then it was painted at the factory that way and there could be many reason why it was painted that way. If it's the paint under the civy layers then it might have been repainted maybe in a motor pool and that was the color of paint they had on hand. WWII had only ended 8 year earlier so stock piles of WWII paint were still on hand I'm sure. So it could have been painted that color at the factory because they didn't have the correct color in stock, but had a boat load of the WWII paint left over....It could have been a special change in the contract because of the Korea Conflict that the WWII paint was used? If it was painted in the field it could be anything from that was the paint the unit had on hand to the CO of the unit wanted all the trucks to be the same color and it was easier to paint one truck than ten..... The bottom line is who really knows why it was painted that color. It could also be that the paint your looking at has faded or darken to look like the WWII color but is really the early 50's color. Bottom line is paint the truck the color you want....someone will tell you it's wrong no matter what you do...

Thanks k8icu. I think I will go with the 24070 as it was supposed to be correct for 1953. Hopefully I will get started on it in the next couple of weeks. Have to clean up the shop from a Pontiac Sunfire 2.4L rebuild. At least the next 2 days will be warm.
Phillip

The OD 2430 was spec'd to the OEM's by Uncle to be used to prime itself. It was deliberately flattened and then a finish coat of the same unflattened 2430 was then applied. Korea did not generate any special factory painting program. The war started Jun 1950 and by the summer 1953 was a stalemate with a truce and no change since. Over 90 % of vehicles used on the Korean Penn. from Jun 1950 thru Sep 1953 were WWII units. The Army rules of engagement for painting trucks in 1950 was semi-gloss so even a WWII unit would get painted semi-gloss when the need to repaint it occurred after 1950. In your case it is likely you have simply uncovered the flattened primer coat of semi-gloss OD 2430.

If you desire a correct factory finish on your M37 then you will have to copy semi-gloss OD 2430, or use the very close semi-gloss 23070 from Gillespie. If you want a correct finish for an Army repainted 53 M37 or a M37 built after 55 then semi-gloss 24087 would be correct.

The Paint Specs in place in 1950 were the four digit TT-C-595 with the first digit calling out 1=gloss, 2=semi-gloss and 3=flat or lusterless. This spec was amended in 1952 then replaced by the new 5 digit system FED-STD-595 1 MAR 56. 24087 became the color of choice in 1956 when this new 5 digit standard came out. 595 and 595A have since been replaced with FED-STD-595B dated 15 DEC 80 with Change 1 11 JAN 94. 24084 and 24091 are two closest colors in the current standard.

Thanks Wes. It was late when I typed my last post. I meant 23070 not 24070. I think it would be most appropriate. The paint I uncovered was the undersurface of the hood (and other places) which still has the warning stencil in pretty good shape. I would post a pic of the color, but we all know how pics and images change a perceived shade.
Phillip

Cuz's comments on paint codes are well said and will help all of us decide which paint to use.

I found out the hard way that the best way to have a consistent shade of any color is to mix all
of the gallon cans together in a very large container. The four gallons or so that you get were
probably not mixed or manufactured in the same batch and there's a chance that the "shades"
between gallon cans can be slightly off. This was the case on the first M37 I painted years ago.
I painted parts and pieces one gallon at a time. Upon close inspection you could tell there was a slight
difference in shade. This situation can get worse if you have to order another gallon or two at a later
date. In any event, if using one gallon, two or four, mix 'em all together and stir, stir, stir until your
arm falls off. Then stir it some more. I cannot stress this enough. If pigment remains at the bottom
of the gallon can, you didn't stir it enough like I told ya' to do.
Once the "batch" is well blended it can be returned to the original gallon cans. (Messy but worth it.)

It's also wise to use the same brand and type of thinner throughout. Don't know why but I got different
"shades"on some other civie projects by using thinners mfg'd by different companies. (?) Go figure.

....someone will tell you it's wrong no matter what you do...

And this is one of my pet peeves!!
Once upon a time there was a Country full of nice people. The nice people would say, look at that cool rig, must be proud! The End!

Maybe so, Tim, but there have always been a few nitpickers. Today it seems like there are more people who are eager to criticise when they haven't ever attempted the work. Seems to make them feel better by putting someone else down. My standard reply to them is "Maybe so, but I like it and that's what counts" We'll see what happens this summer when my M37 starts getting judged at shows.

There are people out there who are so-called experts and they can be very aggravating tot he hobby. They like to nitpick because they have an inferiority complex. They are attempting to compensate for a lack of something. For almost every complaint one can go back and use black and white historical data and prove THEM wrong. NEWSFLASH to the experts: most of us are not trying out for museum grade vehicles. We are only trying to restore otherwise junkheaps headed to the scrapyard. Which would be more appropriate? A less than perfect (in the "experts" eyes) total restoration or a scrapped out melted down piece of history? One can offer reasonable suggestions and constructive criticism without being a certifiable ass to people. I, for one, am open to both because I want it as close to right as possible. Just don't expect absolute nitpicking perfection on my Obama-induced budget!

I love both these answers!! You Guys are the Greatest!!
My Lori's truck will be painted O/D flat green jon-boat paint because our local paint manufacture blends it right in our home town. I painted our M105 trailer with it and it's good enough for me!!

All of the above comments are true about "experts" and "know-it-alls" nittpicking auto projects that we have spent
thousands of hours and thousands of $$ restoring to the limits of our knowledge and budgets. I've run into more
than one of these screw balls at various car shows. Yes it makes me mad but the reward is that 99.9% the others
have only kind words for what they see and the kids go bananas around military stuff. I never hesitate to invite
the parents to let their kids get into the vehicle and maybe take a pic or two. I always ask the 5 to 10 year olds if
they want to drive the truck. Brings a smile to me, the kids and the parents. Those kids are our future in the
military vehicle hobby so let them get in your military vehicle and, under your watchful eye, let them play with
the steering wheel, levers, and knobs. The kids really can't do any harm while your watching.
Be sure to chock your wheels.
So... have fun while you're displaying your vehicle and try to ignore the jerks.

Good attitude, Jarhead. Just be extra careful when anyone is in the cab. I have an electrical disconnect installed which takes a lot of concern away. If someone flips the ignition switch on and I don't catch it, nothing bad will happen to my points and no headlights left on either. Likewise, no one can start the truck by accident. It's all fun until someone gets hurt.

Just to add a little more GI to paint colors. I have two very good friends who served in Germany during the late 60's. One was in an armor unit the other was in an endigneer unit. Both worked in the motor pools. Both have told me on sepereate ocations and with out talking to the other person that during their time in service they could not get the correct paint issued to them to repaint or touch up trucks. But the engineers could get and had plenty of black and yellow paint for safety markings on the equipment (the old black and yellow stripes on construction equipement) The armor guys would trade with the enginer units to get the yellow and black paint and the engineers just had the yellow and black paint and they would mix the two paints together until it produced an OD green (i.e.24087).

So, you never know about the "original" color of the truck. When it comes to MVs can be many explinations. Could these be war stories....yes, but two different people who served in two differnt location at two differnet times telling me the same thing tends to give it some validity. Also having been a soldier myself I know some crazy things go on in motor pools in order to 'get-r-done'.