g741.org

I have been browsing around here for awhile and have to say hats off to you guys who really know your stuff and thank you for your time to help guys like me, the information on this site is just incredible!

I am currently doing a complete restoration on a 1955 CDN M37 and really close to having a rolling chassis, next step is starting on motor and getting drive line in.
Lately I have been thinking more about colours (sorry colors) and whether I should keep her close to original or do some customizing.

- Front fenders are redone and do not yet have holes at the back or plates on them, I like the smooth look of them as is…
- Thinking about shaving the power receptacle from the side of the cab…
- Cutting 1.5 - 2'' from the hardtop and windshield to give a lower profile look and adjust hood hold downs to match, does anyone know if the doors glass would need to be altered or could I just roll up side windows to a lower height, would they stay put there?

The tailgate is reproduction from John at Midwest and also bought a winch which the truck never had, lenses for signal lights, electric wipers etc. so already it is not original.

My decision to stay with close to original or custom is a personal one but thought maybe you guys could sway me one way or the other

attached are pics. of some of my progress, I'll attach more in another post.

Paul.

Well, First off welcome to the club and congrats on your truck. It looks like you have your work cut out for you. As to whether or not you should do custom to the truck that is truly your decission. I am doing a custom truck because I have a concept vehicle in mind and when I'm done with my project I hope to convince people that it was actually done by the US Army. But that is just my truck. If you want to chop and lower your truck and put a full blown 500 crate motor in it and paint it pearlized candy apple red then go for it. If you want to make it original to Canadian Forces to honor your family and friends who served then go for it! Here are two known truths. Some people will love what you do and will think it's the bees knees...some people will hate what you do and want you run out of town on a rail. In the end the person who has to love it is you. Also if you go to resell the vehicle will a custom truck sell for more or less than a restored truck? You have to answer that question when making up your mind. Good luck with your project and let us know what you decided and keep us posted with information and lots of pics!

Welcome aboard! Thanks for the pictures, too. Your side windows should stay in place regardless of rolled-up height. As Joe said, it's your truck, therefore your decision. You've got to please yourself first, not anyone/everyone else. Keep us posted on your progress!
Gary

Thanks for the comments!
Blows me away how long these trucks last (good old virgin steel) when you know that they were likely never babied, where will todays vehicles be in 60 years! Also the guys that drove them around when they were 18 are now likely in their mid 70's, would like to go original for that reason… Anyway I have been at it for about a year so I'll post my progress to date.

(tried to post more pics but getting an error “Sorry, the board attachment quota has been reached.”, I'll try again later.)
Paul.

A few pictures of my progress.
Paul.

Can I get a close-up picture of the rims on that truck? I didn't realize CDN trucks had (what appear to be) different rims?

The rims looked to me to be a complete 16" Budd wheel welded into a 20" wheel, is that what they are?

That's correct… 16'' Budd wheel welded into 20'' wheel.
I am going back to original 16'' Budd wheels and got a few mounted up this weekend.

The split rings were NOS so once I offset the ends a bit by standing on the one side and gently pulling up on the other they went in easy, only boot power required.
This would only have to be done with new rings as once used they have that offset anyway.

I put the split in the ring opposite the air value as I heard that this helps with balancing, seems to make sense.
I ran electrical tape around the top edge of the ring to prevent chipping, only minor touch up on the wheels required.

(Not sure what the story is with adding pictures? Seems I have to delete them from the control panel before I can upload more, if I delete then they are gone from the thread.
Was hoping to post more than 5-6 pictures per thread??)

Paul.

Got the rest of the tires mounted. Was able to get 9.00R16 XZL's from my local tire guy.
Funny that they are made in Canada but he had to bring them in from the US.
Paul.

WELCOME ON BOARD FRIEND! AS AFFOREMEMNTIONED BY OTHER FORUM MEMBERS, FOLLOW YOUR HEART AND MAKE A RIG THAT PLEASES "YOU". MY PERSONAL ADVISE IS ANYTHING MECHANICAL YOU FIX ON YOUR TRUCK, FIX IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME SO YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO GO BACK TO IT LATER AND REDO IT.GOOD LUCK

Keep us up to date as you go.... I'm thinking of the same thing as you. Update [custom] or stock. What to do..... Miles....

Having some issues with my water pump. I have two but this one is the better one. Just not sure how I am going to connect the bypass??
Thinking maybe I should get the proper pump that I can bolt the fitting onto.
Has anyone seen this style of pump?
I posted a pick in my rebuild album (Paul Aben) as I can not seem to post here.
Paul.

Well, dotgain, I'm one of those "old guys" who was in the Army when these things were still being used ('68 to '71). My suggestion is to do whatever you want; the Army certainly did when they had 'em. Look at some of the photos from VN you can find on the web. Any C.O. could modify anything he wanted (pretty much) anyway he wanted to accomplish the mission. Success in the field is what mattered, not a collection of pristine trucks and a failed or compromised mission.

My truck is mostly stock (it's easier and then the manual is correct - most of the time) plus the stock parts always fit. There are some things that are different, because I like 'em - like combat wheels with my NDTs, on both truck and trailer. They are not "correct". So what, I don't care; I like 'em. I put the electrical outlet in the bed of my truck and in the cab (lower right hand corner of the dash on the passenger side) and used two unused pins in the trailer electrical plug to bring auxiliary power to my trailer for a black out dome light. Absolutely not stock on any M101A1 trailer; and the electrical outlet was deleted from production on the truck six months prior to my my truck's acceptance date. So it is WRONG! I don't care, I like it. If I don't win any awards, so what; awards aren't why I restored the truck.

It's more important to me to have a bunch of little kids be able to see and play on a truck at a show where everything else is roped off and covered in DO NOT TOUCH signs. Seems to relieve their parents too. There is one truck they don't have to be constantly saying, "Don't Touch", "Stay Away", etc.

Having been in the military with these trucks when I was 17, I can absolutely guarantee you no little 3 to 10 year old is going to do anything worse to these trucks than we did. 17 to 20 year olds are A LOT crazier than 3 to 10 year olds.

So, the take away from all this is do whatever you want (and can afford). If you're happy with it most other people will be too. Do not let the "puritans" get you down. Never forget, it's your (toy) truck !

Rant off.

52 M-42.

dotgain wrote:Having some issues with my water pump. I have two but this one is the better one. Just not sure how I am going to connect the bypass??
Thinking maybe I should get the proper pump that I can bolt the fitting onto.
Has anyone seen this style of pump?
I posted a pick in my rebuild album (Paul Aben) as I can not seem to post here.
Paul.

The fitting on the top of the water pump is for the coolant style cab heater. The correct one is a shut off valve if you have installed the heater, otherwise just a plug. I used to have a thermostat elbow like that with the small outlet. I never could figure that out but then again I didn't try very hard.

You might try asking Charles at MSeriesRebuild. He seems to know everything about these trucks (I wouldn't be surprised if he could tell you where they mined the ore to make the steel for your particular truck - the day it was mined, too).

52 M-42

I talk to John at Midwest and he said it's an industrial pump, I think I'll order the correct one from him, would take more time trying to adapt then it is worth.

52 M-42… thanks for the comments, I am going to do what I want with the truck… it will end up some where between a bush wacker and a trailer queen and definitely not a “DO NOT TOUCH” truck.
Paul.