g741.org

I'm adding turn signals to my truck and have a Signal Stat 600 for the lever. The truck is a former public utility vehicle and has been converted to 12v with none of the original wiring remaining. I also don't have the original light switch or the light control box.

What I'm wondering, and can't find information on, is whether I can wire this lever in directly with a standard 12v flasher (I have a 12v bulb for the stalk). My unit has pigtails with letter codes from B through G and I also don't have the chart of each wire's function. I'm open to using a commercial switch if this arrangement won't work but i've already got it so I thought I would start there.

Thanks all,
Luke

I have a signal stat on my truck. I am not sure of the model number, but it does not have a bulb in the stalk. My truck is all 24v, and I had the running lights and brake lights on the truck as original gear. I used some of the wires for the trailer circuit as a turn signal and ran a wire for a turn signal. I think I still have my instruction sheet for my signal stat if you want me to send you some info. I think you can get the wiring diagram online also. Other than the stalk bulb, you can use these levers for 12 or 24 volts.

I looked in the garage and could not find the instructions.

You would be better off using the signal-stat 900 series switch rather than the 600 series. The 600 is actually a relic and has been for years now. The brake light function is wired through a 900 series switch making installation easier and less costly; future trouble shooting will be way more simple should the need ever arise. The 900 also matches wire for wire with the military solid-state signal system; will match perfectly into a mil spec wiring harness. Straight up, with a 900 series switch costing well under $100, using a 600 series isn't even close to being worth the hasstle. A 900 works great with 12 or 24 volt systems.

I agree with Charles you should get your hands on a 900 series switch. However if that is not the answer you want then here's a site that explains the setup with the 600 and 700 units which by the way as was alluded to above require a separate pair of lamp assemblies in the rear since they do not integrate with the brake lights.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/turn_signal.htm

If you do go with the 900 series heres a good site for those:
http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/SignalWiring.html

Double checked, and mine is a 900. It wired really easily

Thanks for the responses guys. Sounds like a 900 switch is in my future. I found that stovebolt page earlier and tried to work through his logic but the behavior had me convinced that I needed some additional controller for the thing to work correctly.

Better to just get something modern. I see that these grote switches can be had for about $50, so that makes it an easy decision.

Thanks,
Luke

Am I the only one that uses this type of signal flasher on the M37 ??

Hi Stu,
Nope, I have that type on mine too. (Except I sprayed it blue!)
Tim

That's the later transistorized signal system that came out in the 60's. They would have been retrofitted on an M37 in service when the parts system stopped supporting the mid 50's relay box system that came in the B1's. You can still find the 50's relay box kits that use a very common signal stat switch but the parts for your system are still plentiful although they are starting to get expensive. Unless one is looking for a judgeable motor pool resto I would use the more economical and easier to support modern Signal Stat 900 series switch and add the necessary wiring and lamps and be done with it.

I have wired the switch to a modern 24v LED friendly electronic flasher unit and wired all the flasher lamps myself. I didnt see the point in using the transistorised box. We have slighly different rules over here about flashing lamps
so I cannot have the brake lights flashing at the same time etc.

Cheers

M37UK wrote:I have wired the switch to a modern 24v LED friendly electronic flasher unit and wired all the flasher lamps myself. I didnt see the point in using the transistorised box. We have slighly different rules over here about flashing lamps
so I cannot have the brake lights flashing at the same time etc.

Cheers

The transistorized military flasher isn't worth spit. We use conventional flashers always, life is far longer, less cost, and less trouble. The issue you spoke of about brake lights not flashing at the same time; well that's the beauty of a 900 series switch, all that is done within the switch to separate the brake light function from the signal function, makes it really simple and works great for the long haul.

MSeriesRebuild wrote:

M37UK wrote:I have wired the switch to a modern 24v LED friendly electronic flasher unit and wired all the flasher lamps myself. I didnt see the point in using the transistorised box. We have slighly different rules over here about flashing lamps
so I cannot have the brake lights flashing at the same time etc.

Cheers

"well that's the beauty of a 900 series switch, all that is done within the switch to separate the brake light function from the signal function, makes it really simple and works great for the long haul."

I only had to connect 4 wires from my switch, cant get much simpler than that!

That switch you have pictured is the military version of the 900 series. Unless it had been altered, there would be 7-wires coming from it.

Hi Charles,
Of the 7 wires, 3 plug directly into the flasher, leaving the 4 that Stu was referring to.
Tim