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Fording Valve Position
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 4:33 am
by topellis
Can someone tell me how or post a pic of their fording valve showing how the valve lever is positioned in relationship to the valve body? I have had a heck of a time keeping my oil pan liquid tight and I think I may have figured out why. The lever of my valve is parallel to the valve body and is hard wired in this position. If this is like a ball valve, shouldn't the lever part of the valve be perpendicular (at 90 degree angle) to the valve body? I remember from my earlier days driving M151's that the mechanics told us not to keep the fording valve pulled out unless absolutely necessary as it may blow oil seals. (and I think in my case oil pan gaskets)
Thanks for any info.
Mark
Re: Fording Valve Position
Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:50 am
by cuz
My experience with M series fording valves is the handles are not always setup like you would expect on a standard plumbing ball valve, I check each one by removing a line and looking or feeling inside before I decide where the handle belongs. Normally when running on the highway these valves are open. They allow the crankcase to pressurize when you close them. A standard ball valve with it's handle 90 degrees to the tube is closed.
Re: Fording Valve Position
Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 12:32 pm
by majorhitt
I tried to post a photo hope you could see the valve position.
Re: Fording Valve Position
Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 5:56 pm
by MSeriesRebuild
Numerous times we've seen leaking engines with the ventilation closed off. Usually it is at the rear main oil seal, doesn't blow the seal, but will force oil past it. Most often unless the seal is bad anyway, the leak will stop when ventilation is restored. Don't know that I've ever seen an oil pan gasket ruined as a result of the valve being closed. If you are having consistant issues with a leaking gasket, the root cause is likely something else based on my experience. Pan gasket leaks most often result from over torqued pan bolts. Over tightening the bolts pull and warp the pan mounting flange and can actually force the gasket outward splitting it around the bolt holes; especially if the gasket material is cork. It is a good idea to always hammer the pan flange bolt hole areas back level while the pan is off. When installing, torque the bolts just to the point of seeing the gasket start to compress slightly, that is far enough.