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Has anyone come up with a way to check the fuel level in the tank without using the fuel gauge/sender? I suspect I have a bad sender unit in the tank and until I get to it (it's a loooong way down on the list!) I'm trying to think if there is a another way to do a rough check of what is in the tank.

FILL IT AFTEER YOU USE IT

I'd rather not keep it full, I think the gasket on the top of the tank is leaking, so until I'm able to get the access cover off (screws seem welded in place) I'd rather keep the level at 3/4 or so.

Get a long enough stick to put through the filler tube to hit the bottom of the tank. Fill the tank to about full and put the stick in and pull it out. Mark the level on the stick. That will be your reference point. Then just drive around and keep checking with the stick. When it is at the very near end of the stick it's time to filler up again. .....

Or drive it till it starts to buck and sputter and then dump the 5 gallon gas can in. Then head to the filling station. ....

Or spend a weekend and fix your gas tank and fuel sender problems. Hit the bolts for the access panel with PB blaster and let it soak for a few days and then try to take it apart. Use an impact screw driver to see if you can get them to budge. See if they are painted over with a couple of layers of paint...use a razor knife to cut the paint loose.

A couple of options for you. Good luck.

I know the sender needs replacement, as I said, it's on the list. Right now, it's lower priority as the weather is just good enough to paint and I would really like to finish painting this season. If I can get the left side cab and fender done I'll be happy, if I can get the hood done, I'll be elated. Trying to get it done for the Veteran's Day Parade in 2 weeks so just looking for an easy temporary solution. I had been thinking of a small dowel rod and will likely go that route for now.
Know anywhere I can get a phillips head #4 for an impact gun?

I was thinking of an impact driver which you hold in one hand and use a dead blow hammer on it to impact and then turn the screw. I would think you could try Harbor frieght for it. Or even any home improvement store might have the bit which you would have to put into a socket to attach to the impact gun, but I think an impact gun might be to much where as the driver would be more controlled.

Here's a really tough 1/2" drive unit
http://www.gemplers.com/product/125608/ ... t-Tool-Set


Here's a Lisle 3/8" drive unit.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand- ... B0002NYDRG


http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... oup_ID=278


http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... p_ID=11451

Thanks Wes, I ordered the first one, should work with my air gun if the hammer doesn't get it done!

Warren. When I was disassembling my bed, all the bed screws had nuts with lock washers on them and I had to cut all of them off, even the ones on the inspection plate over the gas tank had to be cut off. Something to think about...


Sal

I'm familiar with having to cut things to get them apart, I'll do what i have to do and figure out how to fix it afterwards. Thanks for the warning

Regarding PB Blaster and removing other stubborn, rusted nuts and bolts. Most of us have tried all of the various rust busting chemicals out there. None has ever been the magic solution but better than nothing at all.
I've used Kroil with some success and just plain old brake fluid.
In an effort to get some kind of lubricant to the threads I have also drilled a small hole parallel to
the bolt trying to position the hole half way between the threads on the nut and half way between the threads on the bolt.
The wisdom here is that maybe, just maybe some of the lubricant can migrate around the threads
of the bolt AND the nut. Yes, there will be some slight damage to the threads but generally not enough
to make the nut or bolt unuseable. Works well with "captured" nuts. Use the smallest drill bit practical.
Naturally you would want to chase the threads after removal.
You might also, after liberal applications of lube, try TIGHTENING the nut or bolt. Even the slightest
movement will allow you to see-saw the nut or bolt back and forth a million times to eventually
get it removed. Don't know why the "tightening" trick sometimes works but worth the try when it's successful.
Of course, the chisel, hack-saw or "fire wrench" is the ultimate solution.
Just some thoughts from this old timer.

Don't know why the "tightening" trick sometimes works

It works sometimes because when you tighten the bolt you move it forward and break the rust bond that was holding it up. Then when you reverse or loosen the bond breaks down even more and then it will come off.

Tapping with a hammer, heating with a torch do the same, weaken the bond in the rust.