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I have to take the driveshaft out next week to have new u-joints installed and have it balanced. While it's out, I think I'm going to try stop/reduce the next largest fluid hemorrage which is the rear output from the transfer case to the rear axle. It looks similar to the pinion seal I just did but I'm wondering if there are any gremlins I need to be aware of before I start. I have been able to find a genuine military seal puller that looks like it'll get the job down of getting the old one out which seems to be the worst of things. I am going to use a modern seal with rubber surface. Wondering if I should use another Speedi-sleeve, too.

Hi Warren,
I use speedi-sleeves as a matter of course. Is it worth gambling $25 to re-do the job?
Good luck!
Tim

Watch the needle bearings. I resealed my transfer case and found it had had water in it. The gear teeth and output shaft were ok but the input shaft and bearing sufaces were shot, pitted. I bought a good used shaft and new bearings and seals. I made my own needle bearing installation tool and center shaft tool. You never know what you will find when taking one of these apart.

I recommend using silicone behind the companion flange nut/washer so it doesn't weep, slinging GL90 all over your emergency brake band.
Gary

Thanks for the tips, guys. I dropped the driveshaft last night, took it to get new u-joints and balanced this AM. Guy just called and said it's shot. The dent I found has thrown it so far out it can't be repared. Something not right with the u-joint yokes, too, as the new u-joints don't fit. NOS replacement on order from Vintage....sigh....

WarrenD wrote:Thanks for the tips, guys. I dropped the driveshaft last night, took it to get new u-joints and balanced this AM. Guy just called and said it's shot. The dent I found has thrown it so far out it can't be repared. Something not right with the u-joint yokes, too, as the new u-joints don't fit. NOS replacement on order from Vintage....sigh....

Welcome to the club!

So it begins, it's a game of Dominos, close to 60 years old and only service while serving. Funny, they were made to be serviced, 100 grease zerks, etc. no one bothered after they were retired from active duty. Pretty easy to service but it takes too much time for some. They were cheap so they were just run into the ground until we rediscovered them. Once you get it all sorted out, and that can be half the fun, it will be worth it.

Based on what the driveshaft guy said, I'm thinking either the shaft that was in there wasn't for a M37 or someone worked on it and couldn't find the correct u-joints and substituted ones that were "close" and possibly ground down the yokes to make them fit. I'll know more in a few days.
Hey Jeff, does this club you speak of have membership cards??

Those double walled military seals are a real challenge to get out. A slide hammer seal puller simply rips the outer wall off. Then you have to go around and around with a dull chisel or punch and work the remains inwards toward the shaft to relieve it enough to get it out. 30 -45 minutes on the average for me. Smoke fills the air but it's all over when it flies into the garbage can accross the room. The GSA people with the forklifts are real good at picking up your truck and setting it on the trailer for you. Too bad they crushed the muffler and dented the drive lines with the fork teeth. They forgot that the diffs drop down with the weight and bendy bendy! 250.00 each to rebuild the tubes------ouch So far, my yokes have been OK, no easy seals needed. And that's no Yoke!!!!! John