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I have a 53 M37 that blew a head gasket. I took it off and had it milled and replaced it with a new gasket. i also took this opportunity to clean and repaint everything on the drivers side. It's all back together and i can't get her to fire off.

1. checked voltage to distributor and have 25 volts
2. checked the gap and put it to .020
3. replaced the cap. the old one was pretty worn
4. checked voltage on both sides of coil and have 25 volts
to be done.
1. next is to double check top dead center and timing
2. need to check for spark at plug end.

Any other ideas?

no spark at the plug

Pryorfire48,
You did not forget the small spring from the coil to the cap, is the rotor making contact with the cap. Are you using the Military ignition wires? Are you using all the same components that it ran with before? Did you change anything?
Rich

all components were the same. The spring is attached to the cap. I changed out to a new cap that i had laying around and i still don't have fire. The rotor had some paint on the edge of it and it was not burnt so i am thinking that IF the coil is sending fire to the rotor he rotor may not be passing it on to the wires.

Pryorfire48,
You are running a military dist, it sounds like you are. Are you using military spark plug wires or universal plug wires pushed into the cap held in place by the rubber boots, if you are check for corrosion in the cap and on the end of the wires. Are the rubber seals in place on the cap? Also clean up the inside of the cap, metal terminals.
Rich

military cap wires and plugs. Everything was running before replacing the head gasket, clean and repaint. Seals all in place no corrosion, no spark on any plug.

Not trying to be smart, but did you remember to flip the On switch to On. I have forgotten that one in the past

yep it's on.

coil checks out at 6.6 ohms across the terminals and 10.6 from positive terminal to coil center.

Is there power to points? Manually open and close points to check for spark. Start tracing your power to find what componet is not functioning.

The correct way to ohm out the coil would be:

took it all apart and and had a good look at the points. I am thinking they are the culprit as they are oily and there is not much contact area one side and the contact area on the other is not there.

Thanks cuz, i had found the original post with that exact diagram and that is what i went by. I typed the numbers in wrong. Post to post is still 6.6 which high according to your chart but who knows if my meter is 100 % correct. The other check was 10,5000 so that should be good.

well the points were the problem and i have spark but it still won't hit. I will check the timing tomorrow.

The plate that the points and condenser attach to. Is it suppose to move? Mine will swivel (spin) almost a quarter of an inch. I have to make sure every thing is locked down and set the point gap. Problem is putting the distributor in and out and trying not to jostle it. Bet it won't last long driving down the road.

The plate that the points and condenser attach to. Is it suppose to move?

No. The two screws and small plates that engage the two slots and apply down pressure on the plate may be worn. Try shimming them up or add a washer under the plates at the screw.

thank Wes i will give that a try.

finally got it to start this evening. Need to address a few minor things.

1. Valve tick on the front end
2. spark plugs need new seals.
3. fix wiring on horn
4. fix wiring on blackout light
5. small leak on heater hose
6. put vent lines on distributor and finish buckling it up.
7. change oil