Page 1 of 1
electrical
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 12:04 pm
by newbee101
I could really use some feed back, concerning the voltage regulator on my truck. I had the the starter and the generator checked out and all repaired and found out the the voltage regulator is bad. being as how this is not going to be a period rebuild what would be the best way to go? the distributor does not look to be in that good of shape either. would like to keep 24 volts if possible. what are my options????? and what is available ??? thanks guys every day is saturday
Re: electrical
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 4:02 pm
by SOTVEN
HELLO FRIEND. AS FAR AS I KNOW,IF THE REGULATOR DIES, IT IS NOT WORTH FIXING. YOU COULD REPLACE IT AND CHANCES ARE YOU WOULD BE ALRIGHT. I HAVE HAD MINE EVER SINCE I GOT THE TRUCK IN 1999 AND NEVER FAILED ME, BUT I THINK IT WAS JUST A COINCIDENCE. MANY PEOPLE HERE SAY THAT THE BEST UPGRADE YOU MAY DO TO THE 24 V SYSTEM IS DITCH THE GENERATOR-REGULATOR SETUP AND RUN A SINGLE WIRE 24V ALTERNATOR BY FABRICATING A HOMEMADE MOUNT. THIS IS WHAT I HAD IN MIND OF DOING ONCE MY ELECTRICALS WOULD GIVE UP. (NOW I HAVE DECIDED TO GO 12V FOR CONVENIENCE) AS FOR YOUR DISTRIBUTOR, THE CASING IS VIRTUALLY INDISTRUCTABLE. AS FOR THE INNER PARTS, AS FAR AS I KNOW THERE ARE FEBUILDING KITS AVAILABLE. ALSO THERE IS AN ELECTRONIC UPGRADE AVAILABLE THAT ELIMINATES THE ORIGINAL "POINTS" DESIGN, AND FAREWELL ADJUSTMENTS. JUST MY TWO CENTS. GOOD LUCK

Re: electrical
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 9:02 pm
by rixm37
GO with a 24v one wire alternator. Better charging. Not real hard to convert your old mount. To wire it in is very simple. You can keep points or contact Charles Talbert at M Series Rebuild and get a pointless conversion and he also rebuilds distributors. I am after reliability and ease of use above pure stock NOS. I don't feel it detracts from my truck to have some modern improvements. These 2 items have helped make my truck much more fun to drive.
Re: electrical
Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 7:33 am
by M37UK
I second that, fit a 1 wire alternator and be done with adjusting any voltage regulator for life.
For extra ease of use, fit electronic ignition too. (oh oh, can of worms opened again!)
I fitted my alternator in around 1 hour, very simple to do and I'm no mechanic.
Cheers
Re: alternator upgrade question
Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 8:31 am
by monkeymissile
hope you don't mind if I pop in a related question.....
so when replacing the generator with an alternator, the voltage regulator is no longer necessary?
Also, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the one-wire alternator install?
Thanks
Re: electrical
Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 8:46 am
by MSeriesRebuild
No can of worms on my part Stuart; as many of you folks here know, the electronic ignition conversion is a plus that helps in more ways than 1. Some don't realize all the improvement that can be maintained. Most know we have them available if they are interested, and the ones who aren't interested, well to each his own. Instead of looking for a can of worms to open with a certain someone; I'd suggest you folks that are using the electronic conversion tell us all what you think. How has it worked in your truck, how do you like it, etc? Tell us about the improvements you have noticed or tell us why you don't like it if that is the case.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not looking for the same old negative response from folks who aren't interested and want to stay with a points system; that is their choice and whatever is fine. I'm looking for a response from actual users of the product, that have pro or con issues to share.
Re: electrical
Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 8:54 am
by monkeymissile
MSeriesRebuild wrote:No can of worms on my part Stuart; as many of you folks here know, the electronic ignition conversion is a plus that helps in more ways than 1. Some don't realize all the improvement that can be maintained. Most know we have them available if they are interested, and the ones who aren't interested, well to each his own. Instead of looking for a can of worms to open with a certain someone; I'd suggest you folks that are using the electronic conversion tell us all what you think. How has it worked in your truck, how do you like it, etc? Tell us about the improvements you have noticed or tell us why you don't like it if that is the case.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not looking for the same old negative response from folks who aren't interested and want to stay with a points system; that is their choice and whatever is fine. I'm looking for a response from actual users of the product, that have pro or con issues to share.
I have no issues with my electronic ignition so far. The truck does seem to start easier and faster.
Re: alternator upgrade question
Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 9:16 am
by M37UK
monkeymissile wrote:hope you don't mind if I pop in a related question.....
so when replacing the generator with an alternator, the voltage regulator is no longer necessary?
Also, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the one-wire alternator install?
Thanks
The best thing about the alternator system is that you dont need any regulator.
You wont need a diagram, all you need to do is connect the positive terminal from the alternator to the positive terminal on the starter motor.
The negative terminal on the alternator simply earths to the body of your truck.
The hardest part I found was getting the pulley lathed so it would fit the alternator.
I found that the alternator would start charging just above idle speed, which is great.
Re: electrical
Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 9:19 am
by M37UK
MSeriesRebuild wrote:No can of worms on my part Stuart; as many of you folks here know, the electronic ignition conversion is a plus that helps in more ways than 1. Some don't realize all the improvement that can be maintained. Most know we have them available if they are interested, and the ones who aren't interested, well to each his own. Instead of looking for a can of worms to open with a certain someone; I'd suggest you folks that are using the electronic conversion tell us all what you think. How has it worked in your truck, how do you like it, etc? Tell us about the improvements you have noticed or tell us why you don't like it if that is the case.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not looking for the same old negative response from folks who aren't interested and want to stay with a points system; that is their choice and whatever is fine. I'm looking for a response from actual users of the product, that have pro or con issues to share.
I noticed that my engine starts on the button and idle is a lot smoother since installing the electronic ignition. But maybe my points weren't set correctly in the first place, who knows?
Re: alternator upgrade question
Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 9:21 am
by monkeymissile
M37UK wrote:monkeymissile wrote:hope you don't mind if I pop in a related question.....
so when replacing the generator with an alternator, the voltage regulator is no longer necessary?
Also, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the one-wire alternator install?
Thanks
The best thing about the alternator system is that you dont need any regulator.
You wont need a diagram, all you need to do is connect the positive terminal from the alternator to the positive terminal on the starter motor.
The negative terminal on the alternator simply earths to the body of your truck.
The hardest part I found was getting the pulley lathed so it would fit the alternator.
I found that the alternator would start charging just above idle speed, which is great.
sounds easy enough, thanks. (something else to add to the ever-growing list of things to do for the truck!)
Re: electrical
Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 7:58 pm
by cuz
Not all alternators are one wire.
Alternators also use voltage regulators. Most of todays alternators just have the regulator built inside it.
When converting from the 24 volt 25 amp DC generator system to an alternator there is a wee bit of wiring to be done. When you remove the firewall harness connector from the regulator you loose your wires 10 and 4 connection to the starter's battery terminal. You must connect the new alternator's main output wire to the starter switch battery terminal and then you must make a new connection for wire #10 in the firewall harness to the same starter switch terminal. Wire #4 is deleted. Wire # 8 & 9 are dead ended (not used). You will now need a volt meter to replace the amp meter and source it's plus power to a switched source. Many of these alternators (the military 60 amp for instance) still require a second excitation wire to be connected to the master switch so the alternator is powered up only when the switch is on.
If you use the military 60 amp alternator then transplanting your pulley and using the same base mounting bracket with a slightly different adjusting arm and you are in business. Unless you are running an electric winch or tons of off road lamps 60 amps is more than adequate for any normal use of the M37.
In spite of the inuendos I have used over a dozen of the pointless ignition setups over the years in several older vehicles and they work just great. I just can't see the need to spend the money on a non-daily driver to save the time of an occasional cleaning , adjustment.
Re: electrical
Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2010 12:25 am
by newbee101
Thank you all for the information it is really comforting to know that there are cool things that can be done to bring these vehicles back to life
Re: alternator upgrade question
Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2010 9:19 am
by MSeriesRebuild
M37UK wrote:monkeymissile wrote:hope you don't mind if I pop in a related question.....
so when replacing the generator with an alternator, the voltage regulator is no longer necessary?
Also, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the one-wire alternator install?
Thanks
The best thing about the alternator system is that you dont need any regulator.
You wont need a diagram, all you need to do is connect the positive terminal from the alternator to the positive terminal on the starter motor.
The negative terminal on the alternator simply earths to the body of your truck.
The hardest part I found was getting the pulley lathed so it would fit the alternator.
I found that the alternator would start charging just above idle speed, which is great.
You noticed the low RPM charge rate. That really works neat, idling in traffic, parade participants, etc. The secret to that is to use a specific type of AC regulator in the unit. Low RPM output sensitivity is then greatly enhanced. You can use either an ammeter, volt meter, or both on your instrument panel with these alternators as you desire.
Re: electrical
Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 6:10 am
by rixm37
Charles do you have a part number for the low rpm regulator ? I would like to have it in my part number list.
Re: electrical
Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 8:13 am
by MSeriesRebuild
rixm37 wrote:Charles do you have a part number for the low rpm regulator ? I would like to have it in my part number list.
I'm sorry, I don't have a number. We used to build these alternators in house, but these days I can buy them from my local rebuilder ready to install for less money than I can stock parts; so we let them do it.