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Any body have any idea what regulators are going for these days ? I have the option of a delco or auto lite. Which is better ?

52m38 wrote:Any body have any idea what regulators are going for these days ? I have the option of a delco or auto lite. Which is better ?

If you are talking about the old coil type regulators, I wouldn't want it at any price. The solid-state units are way better, last longer, and are pretty much trouble free. We have those for $110, plus shipping.

Like Charles said! If you want to retain the mechanical regulator for some particular reason, it really doesn't matter which brand you choose. They are basically electromagnetically controlled switches that work on the same principle and use the same elements. The only variable might be the consistency of the factories' individual quality control procedures.

Mechanicals work quite well. They are easily adjusted and repaired. They have tech data and parts available. I have had mechanicals last me 20 plus years without any pain. In most malfunction cases it is only an issue of cleaning contacts.

The transistorized units are OK but no parts, tech data and warranty can turn that cheap modern innovation into a real money vacuum. The transistor units are also much less tolerant of short circuits and battery cable mixups.
Ask for warranty terms before touching any transistor unit.

If you do choose to go with a solid state reg you will need more than just the regulator. You will have to convert from a amp meter in the dash to a volt gauge and that requires a diff spider harness behind the dash.

Or you can just build a "Y" plug adapter for # 27 so you get power to the spider and the voltmeter. Most volt meters available today are the rubber Packard type connector. Also be sure to run a seperate ground from the voltmeter to the firewall or main part of dash.

The reason for the switch is Wire # 8 & # 9 for the amp meter are connected to the regulator plug and in the mechanical regulator they are connected to the amp meter shunt. The transistor unit does not have that amp meter shunt in it so wires # 8 & # 9 loose their purpose.

Thanks for the inf. I think I'll buy both and put the one I don't use up for sale.