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Brake shoe adjuster replacement...

Posted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 5:02 am
by Cal_Gary
I finally tackled this last weekend and it was challenging at first but I finally figured it out. The install looks simple: pass the adjusting stud with spring and washer thru the back of the backing plate then tack-weld the D-ring to the inside end of the stud. Easy? Not so fast! The spring tensioner is so stiff that one cannot apply enough pressure by hand to compress the spring. After trying w/o success to compress the spring using two pairs of vise grips for an hour or so, I finally found a way:

Take a small scissor jack (mine from my S-10), set the flat base vertically against the side of the leaf spring and crank it so the lifting stud on the jack contacts the head of the adjusting stud and forces it thru the backing plate, compressing the spring as more tension is applied (there is no "give" by the backing plate). Then, set the D-ring in place, clamp the ground wire of the MIG on the head of the adjuster stud and weld the D-ring to the end of the stud. Once cooled, release the jack pressure and the spring will release, adding tension to the adjuster so it will not free-wheel but will remain in its proper adjustment.

Yes, I have pictures and some day will get them out here....
Gary

Re: Brake shoe adjuster replacement...

Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 5:42 am
by Cal_Gary
Well live and learn.... When I first did this job in April, the poorly welded D-ring let go as soon as I backed the scissor jack off of the tensioner (after I'd buttoned it all back up, of course) so I let it rest and did some re-thinking. I determined that my welder setting wasn't hot enough, and my wire feed speed was too slow.

This past Saturday I tackled it again, grinding off the poor welds and re-welding it using the adjustments above. This time it is good to go.

I also spent additional time on that hub drilling and using an Easy-out on a broken axle flange stud, replacing it, along with replacing both inner and outer hub seals and gaskets, to include the outer locking nut (that includes the seal surface, as mine were well-grooved from age). Of course, I inspected the races and cleaned up the wheel bearings that my predecessor obviously replaced, since they are marked "Toyo" and "Japan". A fulfilling morning, and I still need to service the driver's side for my next task.
Gary