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Engine oil port question

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 12:48 pm
by T. Highway
I completed the engine block teardown but I think some parts are missing.
The large horizontal port under the dipstick (left side of engine).
I removed the square head plug and spring but I think there should of been more behind it. If anyone has an exploded view of this I would like to see it and part numbers associated with the missing parts.

What is the TM # for the engine?

Thanks in advance.
Bert

Re: Engine oil port question

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:28 pm
by MSeriesRebuild
T. Highway wrote:I completed the engine block teardown but I think some parts are missing.
The large horizontal port under the dipstick (left side of engine).
I removed the square head plug and spring but I think there should of been more behind it. If anyone has an exploded view of this I would like to see it and part numbers associated with the missing parts.

What is the TM # for the engine?

Thanks in advance.
Bert
You are speaking about the oil pressure relief valve, just insert a small telescoping magnet into the hole to grab it and pull it right out. That is all that should be there in addition to the spring.

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 5:34 pm
by M-Thrax
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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 4:32 am
by T. Highway
Thanks guys, I'll have to try a smaller magnet to remove that part. Thanks for the picture and TM # M-Thrax.

Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 5:28 am
by Sal
Hey guys. I have a question about this Pressure valve. Is this a item that should be checked from time to time or is it something that once its in and you don't need to check it as part of your regular maintenance ? Also what would be the symptoms of a bad valve ?

Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 4:16 am
by T. Highway
I used a smaller magnet last night and was able to get the last part out.
Thanks again.

Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 5:40 am
by ffr1910
i got in late on this one. you never want to use a magnet to remove the relief valve on any engine if you plan on reusing the valve. the magnet could cause the valve to become magnetized, even a little bit. this could cause minute metal particles to stick to the valve then cause it to bind down the road which in turn could cause inadequate lubrication. food for thought-bill

Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:32 am
by MSeriesRebuild
ffr1910 wrote:i got in late on this one. you never want to use a magnet to remove the relief valve on any engine if you plan on reusing the valve. the magnet could cause the valve to become magnetized, even a little bit. this could cause minute metal particles to stick to the valve then cause it to bind down the road which in turn could cause inadequate lubrication. food for thought-bill
Possible, but a long shot. We run them over the tool demagnitizer just as a precaution, that we use on screwdrivers, etc when everything starts wanting to hang on such as tiny screws. Never has been an issue for us. Every one on the planet has likely been pulled with a magnet before, so I doubt it's the first dance.

Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 5:26 pm
by ffr1910
Whoops, didn't mean to question anyone's knowledge or experience. This is something I teach in my aircraft engine overhaul class, and I am not going to bore anyone with how many years I have been teaching it :) I learned the procedure from the Textron Lycoming aircraft engine factory school that I attended. They also advised against pulling the guts from a hydraulic lifter with a magnet for the same reason

bill

Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 6:11 pm
by cuz
Hello Bill,
I've been pulling em from Lycoming, Continental, Pratt, Wright, Rolls Merlins, Warner, Jacobs, Franklin, LeBlonde and Kinners for years with a magnet and never a problem. I'll bet the course material from Lycoming came from an engineer with no apprentice time in the field. His deductive reasoning is well founded but with just a bit of overkill. As Charles mentions it is a simple procedure to demagnetize with a tool demagnetizer. The magnet helps prevent dropping and other damage to the plungers and balls that may occur with other removal methods and tools.

Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 8:23 pm
by MSeriesRebuild
ffr1910 wrote:Whoops, didn't mean to question anyone's knowledge or experience. This is something I teach in my aircraft engine overhaul class, and I am not going to bore anyone with how many years I have been teaching it :) I learned the procedure from the Textron Lycoming aircraft engine factory school that I attended. They also advised against pulling the guts from a hydraulic lifter with a magnet for the same reason

bill
No problem with me, it certainly is a valid possibility. Like I usually do, I see you are just trying to cover all the bases. The gentleman you heard it from may have had a problem resulting from it. We just don't know what his experience may have been.

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 8:53 am
by Lifer
Ummmm....good debate there, guys! "Book larnin'" versus "'sperience." Always good for a tussle, ain't it? Here's a possible solution to avoid the "problem" of magnetizing the valve for ya: Just stick a wad of gum on a stick and pull 'er out. ;)

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 11:59 am
by jjefferson
Oh Lifer – now you have done it.

Now there is going to be a debate on which type of gum to use. Bubble gum vs chewing gum. Gum with fluoride or gum without. A gum recommended by the dentist or by the kid down the street.

And that will in turn lead to debates on brushing vs flossing and how often. And then how often you need to go to the dentist and then to dental insurance and then to a national health care plan.

My goodness you might have just set the world spiraling around its axis backwards……

In any event, good idea.


Jim

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 2:51 pm
by M-Thrax
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Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 3:38 pm
by ffr1910
Thank you for the vote of confidence m-thrax. bill