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Well, the truck made it home (5 miles) with no problems. Unfortunately this 'restored' truck has a civilian distributor; it isn't attached to the block correctly, wobbles around, won't stay timed, and runs on maybe 4 cylinders half the time. Half the engine compartment is oil-soaked and the dipstick smells of gas.
I have a military distributor and wires on the way. My mechanic brother-in-law is rebuilding the engine next week. The next big project will be replacing the 16 rolls of electrical tape and 3 pounds of various crimp-ons and wire nuts that are masquerading as an electrical harness.
Other than those little items, the half-done paint job and missing most of the rubber seals, draft pads, and so forth, its' not a bad truck.
Some folks have an odd definition for restoration.

Congrats Mark! Been there, fixed that....
Gary

Better think wit your dipstick Jimmy!

If the oil smells of gas, time to replace fuel pump!!!!!

Mark@Sea wrote:...truck has a civilian distributor; it isn't attached to the block correctly, wobbles around, won't stay timed, and runs on maybe 4 cylinders half the time. Half the engine compartment is oil-soaked and the dipstick smells of gas.
I have a military distributor and wires on the way. My mechanic brother-in-law is rebuilding the engine next week. The next big project will be replacing the 16 rolls of electrical tape and 3 pounds of various crimp-ons and wire nuts that are masquerading as an electrical harness. [Great description!] Other than those little items, the half-done paint job and missing most of the rubber seals, draft pads, and so forth, its' not a bad truck. Some folks have an odd definition for restoration.

Yup! Sounds like a complete restoration to me!

It's amazing what some folks think restored means, I've seen ones that wouldn't even be in motor pool class that were refered to as fully restored. Maybe they think if it moves it is restored after being found dead in some field.

That wobbling distributor is because someone crammed it into mesh with a military oil pump shaft, the shaft will soon break from fatigue. Oil smells of gas, stop right now, the fuel pump diaphram is cracked. Gas dilution of the oil will ruin the crank and cam quicker than you can say don't do it.

Fuel pump - I remember reading something about an updated diaphragm for use with modern fuels, anyone have any specifics on that?

The truck is parked, the engine is coming out in a few days for a full rebuild. Hopefully there isn't any catastrophic damage...

Mark@Sea wrote:Fuel pump - I remember reading something about an updated diaphragm for use with modern fuels, anyone have any specifics on that?

You can get a current production build kit that is compatible with today's gasoline from www.then-now.com You need to speak with TOM, or you can send your pump to them for rebuilding.

Thanks, Charles!

Been looking at your re-powers, but I'm mortally afraid of what it'd cost - unless you'd like to take a '36 Plymouth in trade, maybe...

Fuel pump, oil pump, new bearings and seals in the transmission and transfer case, rebuilt engine, rebuilt carb, somewhere I have to find a rear leaf spring (I've never before seen a leaf spring where all the ends are bent either up or down - looks frayed!). Gotta get the seeps fixed in the radiator, too.

Anything else liable to jump out and bite me?

Just to make things fun, this truck HAS to be on the road by the end of the month. I'm transferring off the ship I'm currently aboard, and no telling when I'd be able to get back to Charleston, SC to pick up the truck if I don't drive it home when I leave.

Based on the noted issues, you might consider a trailer, or having it shipped to its resting place while you are away. There are so many other items that need a thorough inspection before you take it on the road that you're putting yourself and your new prize at risk if you just take it on the road w/o going through everything (such as the 2 diffs, transfer, transmission, steering box, as an example). The wiring is also likely frayed and rotted = fire hazard.

Safety First, Sir, be careful.
Gary

Mark@Sea wrote:Thanks, Charles!

Been looking at your re-powers, but I'm mortally afraid of what it'd cost - unless you'd like to take a '36 Plymouth in trade, maybe...

Fuel pump, oil pump, new bearings and seals in the transmission and transfer case, rebuilt engine, rebuilt carb, somewhere I have to find a rear leaf spring (I've never before seen a leaf spring where all the ends are bent either up or down - looks frayed!). Gotta get the seeps fixed in the radiator, too.

Anything else liable to jump out and bite me?

Is anything else liable to jump out and bite? You can pretty much count on that happening with any component that you don't go through initially. Remember you are dealing with a 50-60 year old truck, if it had "0" miles on the odometer, you would still have issues a plenty from the age factor alone.

Mark@Sea wrote:Just to make things fun, this truck HAS to be on the road by the end of the month. I'm transferring off the ship I'm currently aboard, and no telling when I'd be able to get back to Charleston, SC to pick up the truck if I don't drive it home when I leave.

I would highly recommend you don't do this, you need to hire a hauler to move it unless you have your own hauling capability. You will likely wind up hauling it most of the way if you do put it on the road, plus you run a HUGE risk of damaging components severely. Safety for yourself and other motorist is as huge factor as is liability if the unthinkable were to occur. Bad idea, driving it at this stage.

Guys, this is what the truck is getting in the next 3 weeks or so:

Engine is getting a full rebuild. Water pump, fuel pump, carb all getting rebuilt. New hoses & belt.

Ignition system (obviously) getting replaced w/correct components.

Wiring harness is being replaced.

Radiator is coming out for minor repair/cleaning. If time and $ allow, might pull the fuel tank and send it to them for steam cleaning and a sealing treatment of some sort.

Transmission and transfer case are getting opened, inspected, seals and bearings replaced.

Differentials will get the open and inspect, as well.

Wheel bearings getting repacked, and will take a look at steering components (thanks for the tip).

No zerk will be left unzerked...

Brakes work fine, lots of pressure to the pedal. Parking brake is a little weak, but I don't see that as an immediate issue. Horn button on the steering column is kaput, previous owner relocated it to a pushbutton on the dash. This issue should be cleared with the new harness, I'm thinking.

Tires are great, but no spare, no jack. Going to chance it, as I don't see a reasonable (read: cheap) way to get my hands on a rim in time.

Vacuum wipers are problematic, but I'll try soaking them in kerosene, and replacing the hose. Not that vacuum wipers work really well when they work, of course...

Any advice along the lines of "always replace X"?