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Ok, folks, which do you prefer and why?
I'm leaning toward a hardtop for a few reasons. First, according to the specs, the hardtop is lower (better fit in the garage). As I'm not a topless sort of guy, I can't really see running with the top down. While I don't plan on being out in the rain, one never knows when you might get caught in a rainstorm and I think the soft top would need regular waterproofing.
So, what say you?

In my experience, the hardtop was alot noisier to drive. The top acts like a giant speaker box versus no top. I could carry on a conversation quite easily without the top on. With the hard top on, I couldn't even hear myself think. I've got the insulated rectangular rear window artic top on my truck. The insulation feels as though it does nothing for sound deadening, although I'm quite sure it helps alot.

As for the soft top, I've heard that the Mil. spec vinyl material is far superior to the canvas. I've found them here: https://www.beachwoodcanvas.com/ for quite a reasonalbe price.

I prefer the rag top myself. I usually "drop the top" during the nice weather (I've also been known to fold the windshield as well). I live in the mountains and there's plenty of back roads to drive my truck on not to mention all the trails.

In late spring (or early fall), it is great to take the truck for a drive, drop the top and take in all of Mother Nature's "handy work." Really can't "take it all in" as well with a hard top installed. Plus, If the weather turns, I have my canvas with me to re install (it's not that hard) where as with the hard top, it's either on or it's off. If it's off, it's probably back at home and not with you.

Most of the MVs I've owned were rag tops and water leaching through the canvas really wasn't a problem. I think you'll have more problems with water leaking in around the inner windshield frames.

To play "Devil's advocate" in defence of hard tops, if you happen to live in a part of the Country that sees long, cold, hard winters and you want to continue to drive your MV year 'round, than an insulated HT w/ heater kit is a must.

Not sure if my post helps or not, but that is how I feel. Thanks for posting what I hope will shape up to be an interesting thread.

Matt

I like the rag top for the miltary look; however, I also have a CCKW hard top that I'd intended on using once we relocated into the snow zone, but that didn't pan out.
Gary

I've got the government hard top with the sliding rectangular window. It works great,but is a bit noisy as previously mentioned. Its also heavy,so you'll need a friend to help take it off and put it on.

I have to wonder if some newer sound deadening insualation would have a postive impact on the noise levels with the hard top. My foam insulation looks as old as it is, and I've been wondering of late what to replace it with.

I'm thining of removing the original insulation, and spraying the inside of the top with bed-liner, then an acoustic mat of some sort, and then a similar foam to whats there stock to cover it all up. Replacing the cardboard insulation on the fire wall with acoustic mat and some in the doors as well as under the seat box...

On several of the auto overhaul shows they seem to use a self-adhesive sound/temp mat. It looks like it would work well, but in these shows, they always cover it with carpet, headliner or other material. Seems to have a foil surface with a rubberized and/or foam backing. The biggest issue would be getting something to put over it, might be tough to find something that sticks to the foil surface.

MikeOneSix wrote:....
To play "Devil's advocate" in defence of hard tops, if you happen to live in a part of the Country that sees long, cold, hard winters and you want to continue to drive your MV year 'round, than an insulated HT w/ heater kit is a must.

Not sure if my post helps or not, but that is how I feel. Thanks for posting what I hope will shape up to be an interesting thread.

Matt

And thus my question. I live in CT (OK, not the coldest climate, but I've used the heater in the car in June and Sept!) and I dislike being cold. At this point, I do plan on a heater even though I won't be driving whatever I get when there is salt on the roads. The Veteran's Day parades can vary from mid 60's (this year) to light snow, so I think a heater will be a must.

I have a rectangular window hard top. I pulled out all the glass insulation. Replaced it (filled all voids) with Reflectex it is a bubble wrap insulation with aluminum foil on each side. Use 3M 90 spray glue to hold in place, cut with razor blade to fit. Available at Lowes and on line in insulation dept. approx $55 for 4' X 25' cheaper on line under various other names. It deadens some of the sound AND it is a radiant barrier so my cab is cooler in summer and warmer in winter plus does not hold water so no more internal cab rot. I also replaced the cardboard pads on the firewall with it since it is stiff. Now for nonpurists I also glued a layer of black trunk liner fabric to the Reflectex, makes it stiffer and is a nice upholstry. Also helps deaden sound and does not hold water so I can hose out inside of cab. The inside of my cab is all done with this and looks like a prop upholstry job (no I didn't do the seats)

Warren
I once drove my WC51 to a Veteran's day parade about 30 miles away from me. If you don't know what a WC51 is, picture an M37 with a rag top and no doors/windows or heater. The temp was in the low 30s and windy. Sure it was cold but, I dressed appropriately and was fine. Remember you have a truck so you can always carry more gear with you then if you were on foot.

As for military heaters, They seem to come in two variaties "nuclear blast" or "bic lighter". Maybe some of the other members will chime in here (I think) if you go with the artic heater kit, stick with the canvas top as it will disapate more heat through it. Otherwise with the hard top, you may find yourself driving with both windows down and the windshields cracked to let all that excess heat out.

Matt

So what you are saying is that the arctic heater can't be throttled back? I guess I'm still thinking in terms of civie vehicles, my old pickup had a decent heater (too much radiator, though and I ended up getting a grill cover for below freezing just to get eng temps to 180) which I could adjust fan speed and water flow.
Even at that, I've never been too hot, even in the AZ desert in July!

Several of the gas fired heater kits include a remote thermostat. Their output can be regulated. I think flow dividing and control to cabin vs defrost is a big problem. Some ducting systems force you to continue heating the cabin when you only want defrost function.

WarrenD wrote:So what you are saying is that the arctic heater can't be throttled back? I guess I'm still thinking in terms of civie vehicles, my old pickup had a decent heater (too much radiator, though and I ended up getting a grill cover for below freezing just to get eng temps to 180) which I could adjust fan speed and water flow.
Even at that, I've never been too hot, even in the AZ desert in July!

My M151A2 used to have a heater in it but I never used it so I can't attest to it's effectiveness. My mutt also had the vinyl top and doors so all buttoned up with two adults inside wasn't to bad. What I know about the artic heaters, I heard from guys who had them. They said that they did work but it had to be really really cold otherwise, the cab interior became way to warm.

From what I've just read (above) you strike me as the type of fellow who might be comfortable on the surface of the sun so an artic heater and hard top in a Conn. winter might be a good match. I would get way more imput from the board before I made a desision though (just my $.02).
Matt

Tops:
I have had both but prefer the soft one only because it can be easily removed which I do in the summer for evening drives when it has been a hot day and I want to take a drive along the river to enjoy the scenery and cool off.

Heaters:
I had a orig. Stewart Warner gasoline burner on the front fender of an M that I once owned and it had only two settings, high and low. On low it made so much heat that driving with the left window rolled down was the only way to keep from getting overheated. Didn't like having burning gas located so close to me and usually didn't use it at all, just dressed in warm clothing.

There is another question you must ask yourself. Up in Ct. you get about the same rain as we do here on the island, is your truck garaged? Mine isn't and what I found was I didn't like constant water dripping into the cab with each rain. So I popped a golf cart cover over the entire top, windshield and all. That helped a great deal, but I found myself not using the truck that much because I had to remove the cover each time. My one Son is a real detective and the family got together and bought me a fiberglass top for my birthday. For me it is perfect. I even sealed the top inner windshield area with silicon for the winter. Noisier, yes but I'm half deaf anyway from shooting an M2. The truck came with an in cab heater and on low speed it was fine at 45 mph yesterday with about a 22* ambient. It also fits under the garage door opening just fine. I can always switch back to canvas if I chose JMO