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it may seem like a dumb question, but I just want to verify where the RF filter is typically located so I can remove it when I go to install my Pertronix unit. A pic would also be great. I have the manuals, but the illustrations are hard to read. Thanks in advance.

MM - we bought the Pert from Charles, came with great instructions. The RF is located inside the connector housing on the side of the dist. When you pull the coil, you'll see the wire that makes that connection. The problem we had was that the RF also is the barrel connection to the incoming harness ignition wire (4? if I recall). So you start at the harness side (outside the dist) and make that harness connection. Then thread the wire thru the cannon connector on the side of the dist and keep going all the way to the coil (one wire - no connections). Cleans up the connection nicely. Keith

excellent! Thanks Keith. I don't have the instructions with me at the moment, but hope to find the time to do the upgrade over the long weekend. Have a good one.

I modified my filter so It would still work with the connector

[img][img]http://inlinethumb58.webshots.com/43065/1029543270033732824S600x600Q85.jpg[/img][/img]

M-Thrax wrote:I modified my filter so It would still work with the connector

[img][img]http://inlinethumb58.webshots.com/43065/1029543270033732824S600x600Q85.jpg[/img][/img]

cool, so I'm assuming you're using the stock points and not an electronic ignition in yours?

Correct
I basicly took apart the insides of the filter (metal foil coated paper )

M-Thrax wrote:Correct
I basicly took apart the insides of the filter (metal foil coated paper )

that's a good idea, I'll have to give it a try. Thanks!

Does anyone know why the RF filter is removed when installing the solid state ignition?

rc51racer wrote:Does anyone know why the RF filter is removed when installing the solid state ignition?

I believe it simply improves the spark by reducing impedence on the current and since most M's no longer have radios (or need them), there's no real use for it.

The RF will fail over the years giving the same symptoms of a bad coil so its a good idea to get rid of it even if you don't go with electronic ign

M-Thrax wrote:Correct
I basicly took apart the insides of the filter (metal foil coated paper )

so now I'm wondering how you secured the de-foiled central pin in the shortened housing. I had to destroy both red rubber washers taking mine apart. I thought about finding a rubber washer that was the right size and crimping over the end of the cylinder.

I cut mine twice , first cut was on the back of the filter that went all the way through and the second/final was cutting just the casing and removing the paper then recrimping the wire on the pin and I was done!, pin stayed in nice and solid. I guess you could go with a rubber grommet or bushing and seal it in so it stays put

The electronic ignition and removal of the RF filter will result in a hotter spark (no electrical loss). We were able to pull the lead wire thru the connector and still screw on the cannon connector for the "look."

From outside appearances, from the ignition wire connector, its looks like it leads right into the RF - only we know it missing - plus you eliminate another connection in the wire. For what its worth - Keith

monkeymissile wrote:

rc51racer wrote:Does anyone know why the RF filter is removed when installing the solid state ignition?

...since most M's no longer have radios (or need them), there's no real use for it.

The problem isn't as bad in this technologically advanced era, but you could make your neighbors unhappy if you run without one. Your ignition system will cause interference (static/snow) with their radio and TV reception. This increases in direct proportion to the rpm of the engine. FM and/or satellite radio, cable TV, and electronic ignition systems havew all but eliminated the problem, but us "olde phartes" remember it very well!

M-Thrax wrote:I cut mine twice , first cut was on the back of the filter that went all the way through and the second/final was cutting just the casing and removing the paper then recrimping the wire on the pin and I was done!, pin stayed in nice and solid. I guess you could go with a rubber grommet or bushing and seal it in so it stays put

I think I'll pot mine in some epoxy