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Where does your charging/gernerator gauge read?

Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:17 am
by Chunk
Trying to diagnose a charging problem. My gauge entered the top of the yellow and the voltage regulator was clicking away like a pinball machine and I was like "what the hell is going on?". Anyway i was close to home,so I brought the truck back. Today I started with cleaning all the grounds. everyone you can think of. Bond strap from bell housing to frame,battery ground to frame,battery posts,battery clamps,etc,etc. Cleaned the points in the regulator with 600 wet/dry sand paper,and made sure the regulator itself was grounded to the regulator bracket. All I still get is click,click,click,click,click from the regulator,and I'm still in the middle of the yellow on the gauge. :cry: Any suggestions? Thanks,Joe

Re: Where does your charging/gernerator gauge read?

Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 3:05 pm
by MSeriesRebuild
Chunk wrote:Trying to diagnose a charging problem. My gauge entered the top of the yellow and the voltage regulator was clicking away like a pinball machine and I was like "what the hell is going on?". Anyway i was close to home,so I brought the truck back. Today I started with cleaning all the grounds. everyone you can think of. Bond strap from bell housing to frame,battery ground to frame,battery posts,battery clamps,etc,etc. Cleaned the points in the regulator with 600 wet/dry sand paper,and made sure the regulator itself was grounded to the regulator bracket. All I still get is click,click,click,click,click from the regulator,and I'm still in the middle of the yellow on the gauge. :cry: Any suggestions? Thanks,Joe
Toss the boat anchor & change to a solid-state type regulator. It is a direct interchange in every way.

Re: Where does your charging/gernerator gauge read?

Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:58 pm
by Juan
MSeriesRebuild wrote: Toss the boat anchor & change to a solid-state type regulator. It is a direct interchange in every way.
Amen, the mechanical "boat anchor" will kill your batteries in no time.
When I had the oem system, I remember both batteries boiling after a short trip.

Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 4:00 am
by Lifer
Agreed! Deep-six the boat anchor and replace it with an electronic version. The OEM type is basically a group of electromagnetic switches. When the battery is fully charged, an electromagnet holds the switch in an open position, preventing current from flowing and overcharging the battery. When the battery voltage drops to a certain level, the magnet "loses its grip" on the switch, allowing it to close and for current to flow into the battery. These are subject to magnet coils burning out, coils tripping (the "click, click" sound you mentioned) due to vibration, and corrosion/rust causing them to stick in either the open or closed position. While they were the only game in town for a lot of years and did a respectable job of what they were supposed to do, the electronic version eliminates all this hassle. :)

Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 6:44 pm
by hairpin151
Toss both boat anchors and go with an alternator.I recently went through all this.Mechanical VR changed to an electronic then a different generator still no joy,so I called the ever helpfull Charles and went with an alternator.Way better if you're not trying to be a purest and when you get rid of the VR bracket it really opens up the engine compartment.

Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 12:28 pm
by Chunk
Now I'm leaning toward an alternator. I like original stuff too,but I don't need a dead battery in the middle of no where land. Besides,I can always bolt on the original gernerator and regulator if I have the desire to do so. Anyway......What does your gauge read when everything is working well? In the low green,mid green,high green? How about the alternator? Thanks Joe

Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 2:48 am
by Lifer
Anywhere in the green is "good." If your batteries are low and ghe generator/voltage regulator are doing their thing, it should be in the high green and slowly drop to mid-green as the batteries are fully charged. A low green could indicate that you are drawing slightly more current than your generator is pumping in or that your batteries are losing their ability to accept a full charge.

Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 3:18 am
by Nickathome
Chunk wrote:Now I'm leaning toward an alternator. I like original stuff too,but I don't need a dead battery in the middle of no where land. Besides,I can always bolt on the original gernerator and regulator if I have the desire to do so. Anyway......What does your gauge read when everything is working well? In the low green,mid green,high green? How about the alternator? Thanks Joe
My truck has a M151 alternator installed.

Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 4:34 pm
by jbxx
Who has the electronic versions available?
J.B.

Posted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 8:54 am
by MSeriesRebuild
jbxx wrote:Who has the electronic versions available?
J.B.
You lost me, exactly what are you asking?

Posted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 4:39 pm
by Lifer
I think he's asking who sells the electronic voltage regulators.

Posted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 6:36 pm
by hairpin151
I'm running a 24V alternator and as soon as the engine starts the needle goes right to the white tick mark in the middle of the green.