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Hi Wayne,
If you dont want to damage your wheel, I wouldnt "shade tree it" If you are willing to pay the postage both ways, I will lend you mine. It has traveled all over the country to many people I have never met and always come home. I think it costs about $15 or $20 to ship it.
Let me know if you would like to use it.
Tim

I have always used a "clamshell" bearing puller successfully.

Harbor freight sells a steering wheel puller that might be adaptable to pull the wheel from an M37.

powerwagontim wrote:Hi Wayne,
If you dont want to damage your wheel, I wouldnt "shade tree it" If you are willing to pay the postage both ways, I will lend you mine. It has traveled all over the country to many people I have never met and always come home. I think it costs about $15 or $20 to ship it.
Let me know if you would like to use it.
Tim

That's a right kind offer Tim, I shall keep it in mind if I run into trouble. My wheel isn't perfect and I have quite a number of pullers. Some I made for special operations, others were gathered over the last 40 years. A few years ago I made some purchases from the Govt. auctions and even have a set of pullers used on F16s. If you could measure the ID of the ring part I would be great full. Thanks again for the offer.

If you don't have or can't find the right puller, by all means take
Tim up on his offer. Many a part has become FUBAR for lack of the proper tool!

I have the steering wheel puller set too and will measure mine which has two different sized rings (I'd also be happy to loan you my set, but shipping would be much higher from CA as opposed to Tim's home).
Gary

Barrow Tims....make detailed drawing from it and then make up your own...then you can make multipal copies and sell them... Just a thought.

And yes in the hands of the wrong person with the wrong tools the steering wheel can get messed up. When mine got to the point of being to meesed up to repair I ended up beating the thing off the colume!

Hi Wayne,
I dont have the tool in front of me, but the collar that fetches up behind the steering wheel is just a bit bigger around than the steering column. I will try to remember to take a picture of it tomorrow when I am in the shop.
Tim

Here are the ring dimensions:

Large:
4 7/8" diameter with a 3 5/8" opening;
Small:
2 7/8" diameter with a 2 1/8" opening.

The large ring pulls from just under the steering wheel pokes; the small ring pulls from bottom of the steering wheel sleeve itself. Mine worked better with the large ring.
Gary

That's "spokes" not "pokes" (sorry Cowboys)

Thanks Much Gary, When I get my new bearing and isolator I'll post photos. Today I pulled the rubber horn cap off and saw that the machined part of the wheel that the rubber cap holds onto had a chunk broken off. My guess is someone tried to pull the wheel that way ??

You're welcome Wayne! No telling on the wheel-mine had a doggone dime hammered into the middle of the steering shaft when I bought my M~! Oh, those rings are 1/2 steel loops by the way.
Gary

I always wanted one of those original puller setups but couldn't justify the price. I cautiously tried a few different methods unsuccessfully. One day as I stood there looking at it I decided that since I was replacing that wheel anyway I would just drill and tap it-2 holes 180" apart on either side of the ring around the splines. Installed a typical harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller and it came right off. Just be sure not to drill all the way through if you want to save the wheel and be sure to presoak the splines for a few days with a good penetrant.

neverfinished wrote:I always wanted one of those original puller setups but couldn't justify the price. I cautiously tried a few different methods unsuccessfully. One day as I stood there looking at it I decided that since I was replacing that wheel anyway I would just drill and tap it-2 holes 180" apart on either side of the ring around the splines. Installed a typical harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller and it came right off. Just be sure not to drill all the way through if you want to save the wheel and be sure to presoak the splines for a few days with a good penetrant.

When the parts get here I'll pull the horn button guts and make the call. The drilling and tapping makes sense as I have an old style two leg wheel puller and a balancer puller is a must in my drawer of must haves. We'll see which way I go and my Son has gotten me riser clamps off his job if I use my original idea.