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I was brousing the net lunchtime for M151 heater kits(I think I'm going this route now instead of a civvy unit) and came across muttmotorpool.com/shadetree mutt parts. They list a NOS heater kit for $170.00. I tried calling them but got a busy signal"! I'm going to call back later to see if they still have any. Anyone ever deal with these people? Are they on the up and up?

BTw - I tried Sam Winer and he is out of heater kits. Just has some misc parts for the heater.

Nick, are you planning to use the mutt heater in an M37? Is it a fairly easy installation?

I haven't heard of them, Nick. NC, it's a simple install-most mount it forward under the glove box area, others mount it under the passenger or driver's seat. I'm doing the forward install myself tomorrow-will provide feedback as to how it goes.
Gary

Never heard of this seller. Personally I don't like the 151 heater kit in an M37. No leg room for the passenger & a night mare when you need to access under the dash, much better options exist. This a mechanics point of view, I don't like things in my way when I need to get to something.

I personally do like the Mutt heater in an M37, I even put one in my M-819 wrecker.

Unless there is something else in that kit that is invaluable, it is way too much money. Get ahold of Army Surplus Warehouse for just a new heater for around $75.00.

I mounted mine under the jockey box and "re-clocked" the output tube to shoot out in the cab. It puts out so much heat that I did not need defrost ducts.

I like the 151 heater i put in my M37. It is mounted on the bottom of the glove box. If I had it to do over I might reinforce the mounting a bit.

Charles didn't like the leg room...I haven't had any passenger complaints but this isn't a long distance driver. As to access under the dash there isn't much at that end I have a need to access. ( I installed a new front wiring harness around it with no problem...)

I would defer to Charles as to there being better installation...but, I doubt that they could be done for $75 plus a couple of plumbing fittings.

the most expensive solution is not always the best for all of us....

i removed a olive drab 24 cheap heater from under my dash. i found an opened but never used heatercraft heater on ebay. it had 2 port openings that attached to flex ducting. i installed the unit further back than the unit that was there wired it up and ran 1 heatercraft duct hose to the correct defroster unit and one vent direct into the cab. no diverter, no fancy ducting, etc. even with a drafty cab, i had to turn the thing down on cold days. not noisy like the 151 i tried first. if you are so inclined, i have a bunch of heatercraft ducting, diffusers & misc stuff. the simple install was the best for me. there are heatercraft units on ebay right now selling less than the 151 unit discussed above.

Tom @ Snake River wrote:I personally do like the Mutt heater in an M37, I even put one in my M-819 wrecker.

Unless there is something else in that kit that is invaluable, it is way too much money. Get ahold of Army Surplus Warehouse for just a new heater for around $75.00.

I mounted mine under the jockey box and "re-clocked" the output tube to shoot out in the cab. It puts out so much heat that I did not need defrost ducts.

Tom; Does any wiring come with the heaters from Army surplus warehouse? What wiring would I need to complete the job? I'm not concerned with a kit so much as having the correct wiring. Hose and fittings I can buy anyplace, but its the wiring I am concerned with. Not saying I was gonna buy from that guy I mentioned, just that I found him.

Tom ;

Thanks for the tip on army surplus warehouse. I placed an order for one of their jeep heaters. What other items will I need for the installation, other than mounting bracket, heater hose and switch?

I beleive all that is hanging out is a single wire and a rubber connector. So all you need is to find some 24v run the wire to a toggle switch and then on down to the heater, and "VOWLA" (sp) "what the hell am I saying" and you are ready to go.
You will have to tear the heater apart and be able to clock the output to shoot into the cab.
Let me try to go look at my installation as to the simple backet that I made to bolt into the firewall.
The intake radiator will be up against the passengerside "kick panel" with alowance of about an 1" or so for air flow.

Well my heater is now installed but I still need to finish plumbing and wiring it. The back plug in the head shattered from brittleness after 50+ years, so I'll be drilling out the remnants tonight.

As far as placement goes, mine is secured with a vertical bolt from an existing hole in the back bottom of the glove box, and I drilled, spaced, and added another 3/8 mount bolt horizontal into the passenger side kick panel, leaving enough clearance for the air to be drawn in. Plenty of leg room, too. I used a hole saw on the top center of the firewall to route the hoses (with grommets), along with a hand-cable-activated on-off valve with 5/8 nipples that sits over the engine head. I also got rid of the butchered 90 degree elbow that someone tacked in place on top of the water pump (instead of obtaining the correct elbow) and I mounted the correct elbow, then added a 90 degree elbow and nipple for the return heater hose. Wiring will be a simple hot wire to the switch, then from the switch to the fan.
More to follow,
Gary

Gary;

Where did you you buy the grommets, hand operated valve, and other goodies, so I'll know when my heater arrives, thanks.

Nick - NAPA has all the goodies - most recommend 2 shutoffs for summer and in case you spring a leak. Also be sure to get some plastic tees to help make the various tight turns. The grommets I used were also available. Grab a fist full of hose clamps!

Hi Nick,
Grommets, 3/4 to 1/2 reducers, and 90 degree elbows came from Orchard Supply Hardware; the Valve from Auto Zone; the Pull cable from E-Bay. I'll get the make and model for the valve and post it in the morning-had a hard time matching one up, and I'll warn you up front it is black PVC not metal. Oh, the 5/8 nipples came from Ace Hardware and I couldn't find 90's which is why I had to get 90's and reducers in order to have 3/4 threads and 5/8 nipples (that match the Mutt coolant pipes, and the on-off valve).
Gary

Nick,
Here's the link to the valve-from a 71 Ford Truck. Make sure you get the right size ends-they come in a 5/8 and also 3/4.
Gary

http://www.autozone.com/R,2109277/vehic ... Detail.htm