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Considering that my truck is devoid of most all wiring and accessories, I am beginning to feel as though I want to pull the cab off.

I think it's six bolts that hold it on....so who's done this in their home shop and how much pain and suffering can I expect to experience? Does it weigh about as much as the bed, if I remove the doors? I was hoping to set it on a pair of heavy duty furniture dollies.

Can I get away with just removing the steering wheel and not the entire steering gear?

I have a bunch of welding to do on the bottom of the cab and I thought this might make cleaning and repair easier. Getting it painted properly will probably be easier too.

It is not a tough job. There are four spring loaded mounting bolts. They run through the cab mount/running board brackets. The springs allow for the movement of the cab when the frame flexes.
Two you will see recessed on the floorpans. The other two are at the rear deck of the cab. Start by spraying the bolts with a good penetrant such as PB Blaster or Free-all well in adavnce several times over a couple days. There are also cotter pins in these bolts that will have to come out to get the nut off. The bolts are about 7" long.
It will be much simpler if you remove the steering box. The cab is not as heavy as it is akward. Trying to wrestle it over the steering column will bring grief. If your bed is on nearly impossible I would think. You will have to remove the drivers side pedal floor plate as well. The steering gear attaches to the frame with bolts. Pull the drag link, unbolt the steering column bracket, disconnect your horn wire and your good to go.
Four of us lifted the cab off the frame. I reinstalled it on my own with the help of my engine crane. Hope this helps. If I forgot anything the guys will add it. Good luck

I did the cab swap a couple of years ago out in the parking lot. 6 bolts is correct-be sure to apply liberal amounts of PB or some other elixir in order for the nuts to come off instead of snapping the mount bolts. I pulled the entire steering gear, shifter, and floor pans, then used an engine hoist from the passenger side and a buddy to remove and install mine. It's a short lift to clear the pedals if the steering gearbox is removed-I would not recommend leaving the steering box and shifter in place, as the additional height involved when raising the cab in order to clear the steering shaft would make it VERY unstable. It's also heavy enough to recommend you remove your doors (as I did). Furniture dollies should be ok to support it.
Gary

Oops-4 bolts is correct for the cab. 6 for the bed....
Gary

My son-in-law and I removed mine. We had already pulled the motor and trans and the steering colume and gear. We used an engine hoist and picked it right up and rolled the frame out from under it and then set on a couple of saw horses. The only way I would have attempted removing the cab with the steering in would be to have a tall building (like a barn with a high roof) and an overhead crane of some type. (chainfall, block and tackle etc).

We removed the 4 bolts, all the floor boards, batt box, seats, windshield and doors. We cut a 2x4 to fit fore/aft from the top of cowl to the center of the back - to avoid bending the body. We used bolt shackles to thread into the upper weld nut for the front fender close outs and then cross sling'd from the left front to the right rear. Our engine lift allowed us to lift the body up while slowly moving the chassis forward to slide out over the steering column. We left the trans levers in as well. A bit touch and go but working slowly - we had no "events."

My wife and I did mine
Tractor with a back hoe helped.
Its a snap after you remove all the little stuff, floor boards, steering wheel WITH column and box(3 bolts) and 2 drag links.
Rick

Good advice guys.

I'm still scratching my head on this one. I'm in enough hot water with parts strewn everywhere as it is. Separating those two pieces might tip me over the edge into the doghouse.

Me got's to think about this a spell.....

refit1701 wrote:Good advice guys.

I'm still scratching my head on this one. I'm in enough hot water with parts strewn everywhere as it is. Separating those two pieces might tip me over the edge into the doghouse.

Me got's to think about this a spell.....

Join the Steel Soldiers web site, there are a couple of guys in your area with a 5 ton wrecker, maybe they will help with a lift. I left my steering in but definatly remove the floors as it makes it ALOT easier.

I am a member and Kevin has a wrecker but getting me and him together is not easy.

I think I am just going to lay under the cab until I get it cleaned and repaired.

Refit,
I was at that point yesterday and decided to take the plunge. It really isnt a big deal and the ease of working on the cab is very well worth it. You will be able to properly clean and paint the underside, if that is what you are aiming for.
Go for it!
Tim

Ugh, I'm not sure I can put together 30 minutes in a row to do this. I should post a rant about time management in the Soap Box thread.

Hmm, if I took off the cab I could take it to my bud's shop and do the cleaning and welding there....hmm....where's his number?

HingsingM37 wrote:It is not a tough job. There are four spring loaded mounting bolts. They run through the cab mount/running board brackets. The springs allow for the movement of the cab when the frame flexes.
Two you will see recessed on the floorpans. The other two are at the rear deck of the cab. Start by spraying the bolts with a good penetrant such as PB Blaster or Free-all well in adavnce several times over a couple days. There are also cotter pins in these bolts that will have to come out to get the nut off. The bolts are about 7" long.
It will be much simpler if you remove the steering box. The cab is not as heavy as it is akward. Trying to wrestle it over the steering column will bring grief. If your bed is on nearly impossible I would think. You will have to remove the drivers side pedal floor plate as well. The steering gear attaches to the frame with bolts. Pull the drag link, unbolt the steering column bracket, disconnect your horn wire and your good to go.
Four of us lifted the cab off the frame. I reinstalled it on my own with the help of my engine crane. Hope this helps. If I forgot anything the guys will add it. Good luck

Forgot to menion this......................only 3 of the 4 bolts are spring loaded. The Left front has no spring, so dont go looking for it,

HingsingM37 wrote:It is not a tough job. There are four spring loaded mounting bolts. They run through the cab mount/running board brackets. The springs allow for the movement of the cab when the frame flexes.
Two you will see recessed on the floorpans. The other two are at the rear deck of the cab. Start by spraying the bolts with a good penetrant such as PB Blaster or Free-all well in adavnce several times over a couple days. There are also cotter pins in these bolts that will have to come out to get the nut off. The bolts are about 7" long.
It will be much simpler if you remove the steering box. The cab is not as heavy as it is akward. Trying to wrestle it over the steering column will bring grief. If your bed is on nearly impossible I would think. You will have to remove the drivers side pedal floor plate as well. The steering gear attaches to the frame with bolts. Pull the drag link, unbolt the steering column bracket, disconnect your horn wire and your good to go.
Four of us lifted the cab off the frame. I reinstalled it on my own with the help of my engine crane. Hope this helps. If I forgot anything the guys will add it. Good luck

Forgot to menion this......................only 3 of the 4 bolts are spring loaded. The Left front has no spring, so dont go looking for it,