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I may have a bad engine in my '53. Two floods combined with a lack of mechanical expertise to get to the job may have killed it. So I'm wondering about the replacement issues:

- Ballpark, what will a rebuilt engine cost me?
- Again, ballpark, how many hours would go into pulling the old and dropping in the new?

Far as I know the engine in it is original.

Thanks!

Well I can't give you a cost on the replacement engine I would suggest doing a web search and see what is available if any.

As far as the replacement goes time wise. If you have a compitant partner working with you...you can have the engine and transmission out in about an hour or so. If working by yourself then maybe two hours. It is not difficult just a bunch of little things to take off prior to the four bolts that hold it in.

I can't tell you what a rebuilt engine will cost, but it won't be "cheap."

I bought a used engine for $100, knowing that it was in need of an overhaul. I had it bored out to .060 over and reassembled with new pistons, new rings, hardened exhaust valve seats, all new valve guides, 1 new intake valve, 6 new exhaust valves, all new valve springs, new cam bushings, new main and rod bearings, and a NOS oil pan. All together, the overhaul cost me $1638.54. Labor accounted for $646.00 of that, though.

My guess is that a complete rebuilt engine would cost you in the neighborhood of 2 grand, anyway. Charles (M-series Rebuild) can give you a "for sure" price, since that's what he does for a living.

I decided to start with a zero timed engine instead of using my rigs original when it wasn't performing to my expectations. I will be doing my own assembly so I don't have a labor hour count just yet.
Here we go:
Machine shop: TGP & magnaflux crank .010", degrease, magnaflux head and block, bore cylinders .020 over, true head, valve job, install cam bearings=$485.58
Parts: Complete gasket set-Fel Pro $85.00, NOS Pistons, rings, main and crank bearings $200.00, cam bearings $20.00. Total $790.58. I made the dealer with the pistons, rings, and bearings a package offer which saved me about half the going rate of these parts. The cam bearings I had to buy new. I will probably throw a new oil pump in as well so add another $60.
Shop around for parts if money is an issue.

Add whatever time it will take me to assemble, but we count this as theraputic time dont we

PS: guys, I told the wife it was "a few hundred bucks" "a few" is a relative term I guess

People view a rebuild through many different views. What lifer has described is your basic necessity build. Lots of people elect to go this way for various reasons, however we don't do that type of short build here because we are expected to stand behind our workmanship in the end. Most rebuilders will offer a few months of warranty, if they don't you need to take your business elsewhere. Some offer 30 days, some 90 days, some 12 months or 12,000 miles, etc. Our basic warranty on a rebuild is 12 months unlimited mileage. I always tell people to drive the truck during this period so if there is a problem it will arise during this time. This being said, we try to build ours for the long haul, I don't want the bad publicity of an engine lasting 13 months & failing. I'm also proud of the fact that to date we have never had a rebuilt engine that was done by us to come back with a problem. Doing it right & being absolutely thorough about it pays off. We don't do stuff like replace 1 valve, all valves, springs, guides, seats are new. All 6 connecting rods are checked for straightness & completely reconditioned, many builders overlook that as well. Everything that is replaceable is replaced. All our engines are 100% balanced. This makes for better, smoother performance & a longer lasting engine. Lots of builders don't take the time it takes to pay close attention to tolerances, many have the thought line that these are older engines that don't have to be in their words "all that precise." We spend the time to do it as perfect as humanly possible. Yes, that's just me, "the perfectionist." Now that I've talked about the stuff inside the block, we also rebuild every accessory component 100%, to include electronic ignition. We give everything a new "flat" surface, this includes the flywheel which is overlooked many times also. At reassembly, all gaskets get the best sealers for that application, all bolt threads are sealed. This procedure stops many leaks & seeps that many claim to be simply the nature of the beast. Upon build completion, we put it on the stand for a test & final adjustment run. This takes usually from 1 to 2 hours. It gives us the chance to see that all is well & that the govenor is adjusted & properly tuned for optimum performance. Almost 100% of the engines we deal with have improperly tuned governors. When our rebuilds go out, they can be installed & are ready to go with only minor adjustments being necessary. The price tag usually runs around the $4,500 range. we can stand behind these engines without worry knowing there has been no short cuts. Since governors have already been set & sealed by us, there is no chance of destroying the engine because it could get set up wrong by the end user & blamed on us. We do many little things to insure quality that aren't mentioned in this message, but it will give a general overview of what the word rebuild means to us here.

I get the feeling that a handshake from Charles is all that'd be needed here......

Thanks, guys! I blunder forward with little money and fewer brain cells...