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well we cleaned up the pto and found it was cracked across the idle gear pin on the backside but installed it anyway so of corse it leaks there, but it does function, put it in reverse and unspooled the entinre winch and respooled it seems to grab and letgo when unspooling under power is this normal?
worked fine though spooling back in, also we will need to dissasemble this "rebuilt" winch as it leaks oil real bad on the clutch side(pass side) and the spool is not properly shimed it is dragging bad against the case on the clutch side with a decent gap on the gear side, any ideas for when we eventualy tear this down?

No shims are used in assembling the winch. It simply isn't assembled correctly if rubbing the worm housing. Damage to the housing may be the deal already. Result will be the drum cutting through the housing if you continue to run it, tear down before further operation is a must.

There is a good chance the PTO case is repairable, we have beveled & brazed many cracks on various components with positive results.

i have had good luck on alot of cast gi stuff with my migg welder so was gonna try that, winch will probly never get used but i want it right incase we do need it, thanks for the info

I've used JB Weld on holes in the block of my tractor. Been there over five (5) years without a further leak. Just be sure to drain any oil down past the leak during the repair....don't ask how I know this.

actualy i just remembered someone broke the tab off this pto where the handle pins on at the top and rewelded it so guess I can weld on it thanks for the info guys

TOM R wrote:actualy i just remembered someone broke the tab off this pto where the handle pins on at the top and rewelded it so guess I can weld on it thanks for the info guys

Brazing will work much better than welding on this type application. The crack should be "v" out & filled back in with brass, it wll be much easier machining to reshape surfaces than welding. The same type repair will work well for the handle flange replacements.

ok thanks

Pray, Tell...What is J B weld?...

In my neck of the woods, it is a relatively common two part epoxy with metal fill (I think). Supposedly pretty good for fixing casting, broken threads, and other odds and ends. Hardware and auto parts stores most places in the US should have it.

peter e mark wrote:Pray, Tell...What is J B weld?...

Just don't trust it much, it's a band-aid fix in most applications. More of a $$ getter than anything else. I won't argue with anyone who says it has worked for them, but that's my opinion of it.

Its basically a 2-part epoxy in a tube(s). The biggest problem in using it is the surface preparation - doesn't like oil! I've used it for stripped threads on tapped holes. Mix a small amount with coarse steel wool, stuff the wadding into the hole and thread in your bolt. If you are dealing with a pressure thread - heli-coil is the better choice.

Hello KNATTRASS, and it sounds like once the stripped bolt os JB WELD fastened, it ain't supposed to be able to be removed, ever ! ? Right?

Hey Peter!
The epoxy will give the bolt a hold but you can "break" them loose - the stuff acts like thread locker but the bolt will turn out.

As a young G.I. years ago at Ft. Riley, I kept a 69 Galaxie holding coolant at the top hose connection using J.B Weld as the sealer-worked for the entire year I had the car....
Gary