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Purchased beautiful, solid 1953 M37 from US Gov't. I am in CT it was in NV. Had it put on back of semi and dropped about a mile from my house. Put in new batteries and it started right up...bled brakes and went to get exhaust system. Got it up on lift and fuel spraying everywhere...drove home and ordered new fuel pump. New fuel pump in and fuel still spraying but from new location---I messed up the brass connections. Quick trip to auto parts store for new brass fittings and I am in business. Got it registered and drove all over town today, including down by the beach and if I had $10 for every smile I got, I would be rich!

Anyway, short term issues:

1. New Tires--what should I get;

2. How do I change oil? I have manual from Military Manuals but it looks like I have to pump it out? Is there a crank case drain plug?

3. What do I do about the oil filter? I have never seen anything like it. I found a post on this board that tells how to covert to Bladwin spin on flter. Is that good?

4. I need a bit more clutch. Is there an easy adjustment?

I know, so many questions...Thanks in advance for all help! Doug

Welcome! you'll find that this is a great site for information and people are very helpful.

I am pretty new to this also, but I've recently done the things you need to do so I can offer some suggestions

Cabel Garbee and Carl Reineman have great websites for the M37 and Reineman's site has an excel file with a lot of new parts you can use on the M37. People also frequent the Power Wagon website and the Steel Soldier website.

The oil filter I believe from memory is a NAPA 1100. I used 10W40 after reading a lot of posts on this site and the Power Wagon website. The plug is on the back of the pan. Use a 1/2" socket wrench to get it off. It fits perfectly. With a change in the oil filter you need 6 quarts.

Garbee has a great discussion on tires. The standard tire is a 9.00x16". I would stay away from NDT (non-directional tires) as they are horrible in the rain and pretty scary. McCreary makes a good tire called the Superlug. You can go up to 11.00x16 if you really want big tires.

Definitely buy the ordnance military manuals. Most people buy the CDROM from eBay. You can print out what you need and not worry about getting them all greasy. Portrayal Press has all the manuals in paper form.

HTH.

John
New Hampshire

Congrats on the truck. The NAPA1100 is readily available. After you pull the oil filter out of the oil filter housing take a turkey baster to get the remaining oil out of there and wipe it out. militarymedia.com has all the TMs on cd. Charles at MSeriesRebuilds can answer any question you have and then some. I concur about Garbee's and Reineman's sites. Most of the guys that post here regularly are a wealth of information as well.
Ron
1954 M37
M101 trailer (waiting for gov. ok)

Saw the picture, nice truck!

I think the filter housing has a small drain plug near the bottom, if its positioned in the bracket right. As to the tires the non directional arent so bad ,unless u do alot of driving in mud or snow.( the mil carried chains for this) I have operated my truck for 13 yrs on them w/o any problems in highway use. I once drove with friends (3) each driving a duece and each towing one from NC to northern VA in the pouring rain most of the way on the interstate no one had a problem. If they were that unsafe the military wouldnt use them just think how many miles they put on them.

Hey Doug, Welcome 2 The Fold!
That smile is a great feeling. Cable Garbee web page & Carl, Lifer & Charles advice, your in bid'ness! I saw your picy's, sweet looking rig.
Again Welcome & Good Luck,

Doug,
Welcome to the "club". The guys have pretty much answered your questions. Looks like you have a real nice truck to start with. Are you going to keep it as is or put it back to MilSpec?

JGPierce wrote:...Garbee has a great discussion on tires. The standard tire is a 9.00x16". I would stay away from NDT (non-directional tires) as they are horrible in the rain and pretty scary.

When it comes to tires, the most important thing is to decide what you plan to use your truck for before buying tires. For example, if you will be using it as a daily driver on paved surfaces, a good all-weather road tire would be best. If you plan to use it mostly for off-road activities involving lots of mud, wet grass, and that sort of thing, a fairly stiff tire with an agressive off-road tread would be a better choice. For rock crawling, a softer tire with a slightly less agressive but thick tread would be good. Finally, if you plan to use it mainly for the occasional parade, reenactment, or show, the stock NDTs would be just the ticket.

As far as the military NDTs are concerned, they're great on dry dirt and okay on dry pavement. They are not intended for high-speed driving or for use in slick conditions without chains, which is where most inexperienced MV drivers gain experience from the greatest of all teachers..."Miss Fortune."

When (or "if," as the wife says) I get my truck on the road, I'll be in the last category and will stick with the NDTs purely because they are the only tire that "looks right" on it.

I am with Lifer but for the reasons of wanting to stay to the "correct" parts versus not. The big question is do you want to "restore" it in my mind. That's what led us to make the decisions on what to do. Brace yourself for the wallet and time investment.

Let me add my "welcome!" as well. Sounds like you're already off to a great start. My 2 cents on tires-I'm with Lifer on NDTs-they have the desired military look, and it depends on how you use your truck. Mine will be staying on local runs so I don't envision needing highway Denmans or Michelins any time soon.
Gary

Thanks guys...my plan is to drive around town looking cool...only going to fix what needs fixing. I am in the middle of a restoration of my '76 FJ40 and it needs a lot of work...

Any advice on clutch? I can not down shift into second without grinding..it seems like if I had a bit more peddle it would help but I know nothing about clutches...thanks.

dsansted wrote:Thanks guys...my plan is to drive around town looking cool...only going to fix what needs fixing. I am in the middle of a restoration of my '76 FJ40 and it needs a lot of work...

Any advice on clutch? I can not down shift into second without grinding..it seems like if I had a bit more peddle it would help but I know nothing about clutches...thanks.

are you double-clutching? You need to between 1+2, but not 3+4

So, as I understand your post, I need to double clutch when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd? 1st is geared so low, it is basically useless in town.

Do I double clutch going up also?

Thanks!

I should've said between 1, 2, 3.......sorry for the confusion and yes you have to d/c up and down. I'm still learning too and I now I know why they're affectionately called crashboxes.
1st is your off-road crawler gear or when you need gobs of torque.
Have fun!

I'm told that you can hop out of the truck and walk beside it while in first?
I don't think I would do it even here on the farm?