g741.org

Hello to you all, we are new to the group!

I just had a few questions:

How tight/loose should the accelerator plunger be?

Did you use a spring needle or solid needle for the fuel shut off valve?

Would you know where (other than vintage powerwagon) to get the small spring that goes with the big ball (that goes in the small port next to the accelerator pump)?

The kit did not come with it and we bought the truck with the carburetor tore apart and the spring was missing.

What is the best coating to put on the carb to protect it from corrosion?

Thank you for any help!

Levi & Sara

Welcome Levi and Sara! You've joined THE BEST forum for the M37 Family of military vehicles! Please add your location to your profile-that will help with locating parts vendors and other M37 enthusiasts who might be able to help in your local area.

Your carb questions are many: If Vintage Power Wagons can't help, you might try Midwest Military-John Bizal is the owner and a fellow forum member here under JBIZAL. MECOPARTS or DC TRUCK PARTS on eBay might also have your carb bits and pieces, likely in a new carb kit, not separately.
I can't offer specifics on your accelerator plunger. Some folks convert the needle valve from spring to solid. I still run the spring valve on mine.

I don't know what folks use to keep their carb fresh-looking but carb cleaner keeps them looking new.

We'd love to see some photos of your truck-reach out to us Moderators if you need help posting.

I'll give the others time to weigh in; again, glad to have you with us!
Gary

If you are worried about internal corrosion on your carb, one of the first things to do is use only ethanol free gas. Some people run E10 gas (10% ethanol) without problems. however, ethanol has been known to cause corrosion issues, especially in engines which are not run regularly.

If E0 gas is not available in your area, run a fuel stabilizer with corrosion inhibitors. I've had good luck with Stabil fuel stabilizer products.

levisara wrote: ↑Sat Feb 22, 2025 6:21 pm What is the best coating to put on the carb to protect it from corrosion?

Are you concerned about internal or external corrosion?

I've never seen a carb rust on the outside (or inside), since these are made from a nonferrous alloy (aluminum, magnesium, zinc). But Eastwood makes a spray product (Carb Renew) to restore the new silver appearance of most carb bodies. I've never used it, so no personal experience. There are also some how-to's on the web regarding chemical processes for restoring the OEM carb body appearance (aluminum or cadmium plating).

Not sure you'd want to put anything on the internal surfaces. If you have corrosion there, something's probably wrong with the fuel.

Hello and welcome,

I recently rebuilt my carburetor, and the spring that you identified was also missing. Midwest Military graciously sent a another replacement kit, but the spring was missing from that one also. It seems that John Bizal's supplier overlooked the spring in the carburetor parts inventory list.

I had to reuse my original spring which turned out to work fine...though my preference was to replace it. As to your situation...a tedious online or physical search may be in your future.

Or, you may be able to pick up a carburetor on the cheap just for the internal parts and reuse the spring...if you go that route, be careful and patient. The spring is delicate and likes to stick in place, and you can damage it during removal.