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Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 5:50 am
by Elwood
Explorer0863 wrote:If I understand correctly, this is not a reusable filter and it should go to the trash can. Correct?
That's what I would do with it.
Unless, of course, your local auto parts store has a filter crusher to squeeze the waste oil out before it goes to a landfill.

Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 6:21 pm
by m-37Bruce
Trash can for sure.
Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2020 4:28 pm
by Explorer0863
With the engine out, I needed a crate or something solid to hold it for a while. I am removing accessories a several components so I can paint it. Went to the hardware store bought some wood and built this. Once this engine is installed, more than likely I will use this crate for the spare engine from the parts truck.
Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2020 4:41 pm
by Explorer0863
Take a look at both arrows. What you see here is how I got the truck when I bought it. Nothing was connected here.
1) Arrow #1. Crankase ventilation outlet. Since there is no original carburetor, what options do I have? Do I just plug the ventilation outlet?
2) Arrow #2. With a 12V system, what oil pressure sending unit I can buy and install? For sure I want to have a working oil pressure gauge.
(This truck was converted to 12V by the previous owner and he replaced the original carburetor)
Thanks!
Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2020 4:58 pm
by Elwood
Explorer0863 wrote:Take a look at both arrows. What you see here is how I got the truck when I bought it. Nothing was connected here.
1) Arrow #1. Crankase ventilation outlet. Since there is no original carburetor, what options do I have? Do I just plug the ventilation outlet?
You won't want to plug the crankcase ventilation. What you're looking at is actually the inlet air to the crankcase ventilation system. The Plymouth/Dodge small block flathead sixes have the crankcase outlet on the opposite side of the block, towards the rear, which is normally plumbed into the intake manifold on an M37 (on civilian applications, it just had a "road tube" open to the atmosphere, pointing down towards the pavement - no emission controls!), through a shutoff valve for fording.
You could just leave that port open on the oil fill tube, but if you can't re-connect it to the air cleaner side, you should at least put some sort of baffle or filter to prevent dirt and water from getting into the crankcase.
2) Arrow #2. With a 12V system, what oil pressure sending unit I can buy and install? For sure I want to have a working oil pressure gauge.
I'm not versed with the 12v conversions, but someone here will know of a 12v sender that works.
Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2020 8:30 pm
by Cal_Gary
Hi Tony,
Nice engine stand! I run 12V, and my OPS came with my Auto Meter gauge set, so I can't help you there.
Gary
Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2020 5:10 am
by vit16
Hey! pressure gauge will work with pressure, its a little hose that goes from the block to the gauge, it doesn't work with voltage. Just the light...
Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2020 8:59 am
by NAM VET
I have a functional dash original oil pressure gage, but installed an Autometer mechanical oil pressure gage on my steering wheel column, and also a temp gage for my transfer case, via a sensor in the NPT fill plug.
I will try to post a pic of my pick up and one of my interior gages. HC
[url=https://postimg.cc/HrYH2zkd][img]h ... .jpg[/img][/url]
[url=https://postimg.cc/qtzcQj0n][img]h ... .jpg[/img][/url]
Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2021 6:29 pm
by Explorer0863
Thanks for the replies and the pictures. Very much appreciated!
Had to stop working on my project for a little while. My 89 y/o mother fell in October and again in November. This time it required stitches and a longer recovery period. One day at a time...
Today was my first day working on the M37 in 3 months. Decided to tackle one more time the steering wheel. Had to use brute force with an air hammer and a heavy sledgehammer but the good news are that both wheels are out and didn’t break any of them. Tomorrow I’ll be painting the chassis and if I have time, later this week I’ll be painting the engine.
Happy New Year to all of you and my best wishes for good health and blessings in 2021!

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Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2021 10:18 pm
by Cal_Gary
Nice to hear from you Tony! Those steering wheels hang on like the devil! Bert (T. Highway) brought a steering box to me at one of the MVPA Nationals so we could use my puller to get it off-with the right puller it's an easy job!

Gary
Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2021 8:41 pm
by PoW
If you decide to pull the head, get it milled a bit.
Just enough to make it flat is OK, but if you measure the highest valve when open and have it milled to just give clearance you'll pick up a few HP.
They came with 6:1 compression for 68 octane gas.
PrinceOweird
Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2021 8:29 pm
by Explorer0863
Cal_Gary wrote:Nice to hear from you Tony! Those steering wheels hang on like the devil! Bert (T. Highway) brought a steering box to me at one of the MVPA Nationals so we could use my puller to get it off-with the right puller it's an easy job!

Gary
Thanks Gary!
Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2021 8:30 pm
by Explorer0863
PoW wrote:If you decide to pull the head, get it milled a bit.
Just enough to make it flat is OK, but if you measure the highest valve when open and have it milled to just give clearance you'll pick up a few HP.
They came with 6:1 compression for 68 octane gas.
PrinceOweird
Good to know. Thanks for the info. I don’t have plans to pull the head, but I’ll save it for future reference.
Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2021 6:09 pm
by Explorer0863
Re: 1963 M37B1 and introduction
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2021 6:12 pm
by Explorer0863