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Timing that was too retarded would certainly reduce power, especially at higher RPMs.

Someone posted on another forum that they were having a problem getting over 30 MPH. At one point, they were suspecting that they were stuck in low range (which maxes out at something close to 30 MPH in 4th gear - but you'd really have to have that engine wound out to get up to that speed).

No, that is not my situation, it works fine in hi and low, very noticeable, the same in 2wd vs 4wd.

I have to rev it up in 3rd as much as I can to shift to 4th, and it will be almost impossible to let it rev up in 4th, so the engine claims me "give me back my 3rd please" hehehe

will try timing and maybe the carb is not giving fuel, as there is no smoke in the exhaust

After much searching I pulled this golden nugget from 2010. Not to blow my own horn but I was correct in stating 2 degrees AFTER (per the manual); however, I mistakenly attributed that to Charles who actually stated 4 degrees BEFORE TDC was optimal. Charles' advice is what I'd go with
Hope this clears up the confusion!
Gary


Re: Timing
Postby MSeriesRebuild » Wed Oct 27, 2010 4:44 pm

The correct timing is 4 degrees BEFORE TDC. 2 degrees after is in the manual, however it is totally wrong. After TDC timing is too late, setting at this set will always cause a very poor running and performing engine.

The marks on the pulley are actually self explanitory, the crankshaft turns clockwise, thus the marks on the right side of the TDC mark as viewed looking down on the pulley are before TDC.

The pulley only mounts on the crank in 1 position, it can't be installed out of time.
Charles Talbert
http://www.mseriesrebuild.com
MSeriesRebuild

Thank you guys! I will be going to 4° because I am close to 7 BTDC as measured last weekend.

I was discussing with my brother today that there is a small detail here..
this engine is not a T245 from a M37, it is a It's a T137 Dodge 230 L6 engine used in the Power Wagon MOWAG T1 4x4 GW3500

and there is a post related to it in this forum: http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8239
113 hp should me more than enough!!

I will be investigating the timing for that engiene. I totally forgot about that small detail

John Mc wrote:Timing that was too retarded would certainly reduce power, especially at higher RPMs.

Someone posted on another forum that they were having a problem getting over 30 MPH. At one point, they were suspecting that they were stuck in low range (which maxes out at something close to 30 MPH in 4th gear - but you'd really have to have that engine would out to get up to that speed).

hey John I still have it at 7° so this is something I need to correct!!!
This weekend I will also check compression

Guys, no news...

I moved the timing to 4° but it just improved speed from 35 to 37...
I checked compressin and it was good arround 120 PSI and 105 in one cylinder so I suspect the engine is in good condition.
I don´t know what else to do.
Note: top speed was measured in hard earth with short grass, not in concret, and I have just a little bit warm brake drum (2 drums are contacting the brake pad) but just a little bit.
Could it be that?

fuel pressure low,, carb float level, fuel filter clogged, hot fuel lines, ?? I don't think a slightly dragging brake would cause your problem. I have found being able to watch and sometimes adjust my fuel pressure has been vital. My truck runs fine now on about 3.5 pounds of pressure. I have a 24V Facet Marine fuel pump. Here is my fuel pressure gage system, I have since wrapped the lines in insulation as I could see fuel boiling in my plastic WIX filter, even running non-ethanol gas. I would find a way to check your fuel pressure and delivery before diving into your carb. A rebuild carb is not cheap. Here is my set up. About a $100 in parts from Jegs. Try to not get discouraged. Hal
[url=https://postimg.cc/ykpXN0yV][img]h ... .jpg[/img][/url]

Thanks for you reply Hal!
I will check fuel pressure but I´ve discarded it because when I tried a bigger carb configuration I could find that the mix was too rich and run even worst. But I will check it any way.
This behavior will be present at any engine temp, I feel that there is no air enough for the mix, but it won't improve even if I run it without air filter.

I will re check carb just in case something got plugged.
This Holley carb has a feeding plate depending on the engine, I´ve replaced it with a bigger one and got it running too rich when the power valve opens. With the original plate I had the power valve circuit plugged so I suspected the issue was there, so I bought a new one but it didn't change, like there is something plugging the circuit after I replaced it. I need something intermediate between the large plate and the one I have and I believe the parts are ok, so that´s why I suspect a plugged circuit

HOpe I didn´t bored you heheh

Sorry if I missed it earlier in the thread, but have you pulled the plugs to check their condition? If you are running significantly rich, shouldn't the end of the plugs be blackened?

Hello John!
I just ride with the bigger plate just a little bit and I put the small one back,

here is a picture from them. 1 to 6 from left to right:

Your center electrodes should all look the same. Do you have an intake manifold air leak hence uneven air/fuel mixture? Hal

Hello Hal!
Yes maybe I have, I will check that.
Disassemble will be needed too heheh.

The electrode on #5 looks much longer than the rest of the plugs.

Yeah, one of these things is not like the other!

Dicktater wrote:The electrode on #5 looks much longer than the rest of the plugs.

It also looks like the only one that is not all carboned up