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just me wrote:Cause more troubles than it cures.

Please explain what troubles it causes other than my oil pan leaks, any others?

Thanks, Carter

It squeezes out in little balls of rubber that get into ports and passages and plug them up. No oil to somewhere oil is supposed to go is general bad news. It is about impossible to clean off a surface. If it does come off, it means it wasn't bonded. ( leak ) if you don't get it all off you will have leaks. Nothing sticks to cured RTV. Not even RTV. It can't handle heat, it doesn't like fuel. Used in the cooling system, like thermostat housings, it squeezes into the coolant and the little balls can plug the radiator core.
I've seen it used in the fuel system and found little skins of it plugging the passages in carburetors after it migrated there.
I've personally seen these damages over the years. We banned it from our shop years ago, there are too many sealants that actually are sealants. They aren't always cheap, but I can't afford to do things twice.

Theres a lot of large builders that recommend Permatex , to each his own. I have Halomar also but read that it doesn't do well also, online.

I think I will go with the Ultra Copper and see how my oil pan goes. It looks like its leaking from the front of the oil pan.


If someone uses the Halomar Blue id like to hear the results.

I use Hylomar all the time.haven't done my pan, but on the T-stat, carb base gasket, valve covers, fuel sender and fuel pickup, transmission and rear axle it had been perfect. Like usual. There is also a much harder to obtain purple anaerobic sealant from LocTite that is the ultimate sealant. Will fill a .030 void, hold 300°F and 600lbs pressure. Both clean up with a rag and a bit of solvent.

I've just used anaerobic Permatex Blue for the 1st time on my steering box-totally sealed the bottom plate as intended. That sealer isn't cheap. My next test will be on the rear main bearing cap when I do my rear main and oil pan gaskets.
Gary

I finally got the pan removed with a great deal of back discomfort due to the operation several years ago, it is not as easy to work under the truck as it was when I was a young man and now at age 71 I seem to be wearing out faster than my truck. I jacked the truck, installed stands, removed the wheel. tie rod and now plan to clean things in prep for reinstallation with Hylomar which I have never tried before. While under I greased every fitting I could find which was long overdue. The pan was clean inside due to the fact it now has been off and on twice already. I have another new gasket from MWM and John suggested that I use a straight edge to insure the pan has no bending or warping. I did notice several of the holes for the mounting bolts were dished inward toward the block and plan to tap them flat before everything goes back together. I do hope this will be the last time I have to put in a pan gasket and I will keep you posted on how it goes.

You only need a thin film of Hylomar. It ISN'T something you need a bead of. Over tightening the bolts will warp the tin and cause leaks. You don't need to be in a hurry. Hylomar can sit for hours before assembly. It is anaerobic and seals which the absence of air.

Is that the Hylomar Universal Blue stuff?

Yes the blue is what I used and sorry for the long delay in responding.

I finally found out the problem was with the pan, it was warped and the flange was slightly bent. Used my buddy's surface plate and got it trued up. then replaced it using one of MWM's gasket kits with Hylomar. Then let it set a couple of days until I got oil and filter, yesterday I drove it for about 10 miles then back at the shop found all the work had paid off and no drips, third time is the charm.

Carter that's great. You let it set fully assembled ready for oil as you waited for a filter?

I live out in the boonies and the nearest auto parts store is about 1 hour away so I waited until I needed several things to buy before making the trip thus saving fuel and time. I bought oil and several NAPA Gold 1100s to keep on hand. Ran the truck again yesterday and the pan as well as all the other seals continue to be leak free, happy that it is not "marking it's territory ".

I'm pretty sure I'm not old enough to be 'old-fashioned', but I've been using gasket shellac on the flat-four in my Willys to very good effect. I'd love to say it held up for years, but about three months after I 'discovered' it, I blew the rings on the #4 piston playing with a turbo

So now the Go-devil is sitting in the shed and there's an odd-fire buick under the hood of Old Ironsides... I'm not done with the turbo thing though. definitely going to revisit that in the near future

i know from experience you can replace pistons, rings, rods, and rod bearings without pulling the motor
at least, in an M37 you can

isaac_alaska wrote:i know from experience you can replace pistons, rings, rods, and rod bearings without pulling the motor
at least, in an M37 you can

it's an easy job done that way also put short lengths of rubber tubing on the connecting rod bolts to avoid crank damage.

Just did mine today , gonna let it sit for a day or so , add oil and see if it worked.

I think I crushed one gasket on pass side though.... I bet it leaks.