g741.org

I guess I'd better be draining and re-filling my Tranny. Get the heavy weight gear oil out and put in some 50wt. Maybe that's why this NP435 shifts harder than the one I pulled out in March.

Hey Guys,

I thought I would dig this old post up. I found an interesting article talking about the GL-4 vs GL-5 and our brass parts in the NP transmissions. Take a look:

http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf


Alan

Recent changes in available oils; Royal purple has stopped offering 40 weight, and their 50 weight is not stacking up well in recent testing.

We are changing to Amsoil products as a result of no longer being able to get Purple products that meet the spec. Amsoil has a 50 weight transmission oil that eceeds all the specs. It is THE oil in the trucking business today, I have done research and talked to reps that has facts. No problems with getting the product that meets the need promptly.

Alan: Thanks for the link on transmission and diff. oils. A very interesting read.
It may change one's thinking on which oil to use.
JB

I drained my 90wt, and filled the NP425 with Lucas Synthetic 50 wt. Trans Lubricant. Shifts much easier and smoother.

A question / request for Charles:

What are your recommendations for: An Engine oil for a stock 230 M-37 Engine (less than 200 miles on the rebuilt engine); and a Gear Lube for the front and rear ends (these have also been rebuilt less than 200 miles ago - same time as engine).

Thanks in advance for your recommendations.

52 M-42

52 M-42 wrote:A question / request for Charles:

What are your recommendations for: An Engine oil for a stock 230 M-37 Engine (less than 200 miles on the rebuilt engine); and a Gear Lube for the front and rear ends (these have also been rebuilt less than 200 miles ago - same time as engine).

Thanks in advance for your recommendations.

52 M-42

What did you use in the initial fill after the build? You don't have enough miles to be past break-in yet, once it reaches 1,000 or so miles, I'd change over to Amsoil Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil, 10W-30. This is especially designed for older engines with flat tappets.

In the axles, I'd change to Amsoil Long life synthetic Gear Lube, 75W-90

In the transmission and T/case, I'd go with Amsoil SAE 50 Long life synthetic transmission oil.

Thank you, Charles!

I'll be changing the engine, transmission and transfer case fluids very soon. Probably do the front and rear ends at the same time.

52 M-42

A question / request for Charles:
What are your recommendations for wheel bearing grease, is royal purple grease still a NLGI #2 spec. or is the Amsoil better ?
Thanks for all your help.
T.R.

T.R. wrote:A question / request for Charles:
What are your recommendations for wheel bearing grease, is royal purple grease still a NLGI #2 spec. or is the Amsoil better ?
Thanks for all your help.
T.R.

Royal Purple still offers an NLGI#2 product; however as stocks are depleted, we are changing to Amsoil products exclusively. In fact we are an Amsoil Dealer.

Anyone have any thoughts about using 90 weight gear oil with a GL1 rating in the transmission and transfer case ?



Sal

Sal wrote:Anyone have any thoughts about using 90 weight gear oil with a GL1 rating in the transmission and transfer case ?



Sal

The off brand products are cheap, or cheaper than anything else; but remember you buy cheap, you get inferior protection. Of course you can pour in any product you like, but go this way and your gearbox will suffer due to the poor protection these prouducts afford. So will your wallet down the road somewhere later. Buy cheap these days, you will get lesser protection than ever before.

I wouldn't argue the point with you, it's your call.

I'm not going to argue this with anyone Charles. I read on another forum about the 90 weight GL1 Gear Oil, and I brought the subject up for discussion because I haven't read anything about it here. I'm using Royal Purple 50 weight in my truck and I'm not looking for any cheap alternatives.

Sal

A question for Charles regarding the winch (LU-4) lubrication.

A popular product out here for winch lubrication is John Deere Cornhead grease (p/n AN 102562). It is a grease used in low speed, high torque, high temp and heavy load agricultural (hence the name - a piece of farm machinery) and logging equipment.

Do you have any opinions on this product for winch use?

52 M-42

I searched and found this in a previous post Charles wrote this on that subject:

Re: Winch fluid level
by MSeriesRebuild » Sat Jul 14, 2012 7:26 am

This topic of discussion has come up numerous times over a period of years concerning both steering boxes and winches.

I'm sure you can locate previous discussions if you search past threads concerning this. The short form of the facts are this. Some, actually some which should know better than the advice they offer have recommended the corn head lube solution for steering boxes and winches. If I recall correctly, almost everytime the real solution they were seeking to solve was oil leaks. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to know that grease is less likely to leak out of any gear box because it isn't a liquid. My call here is this; NEVER use grease in any application where a liquid lube is the recommendation. Liquid lubes are used for a simple reason, because of their ability to flow freely into areas where lubrication is critical. Grease does not flow to that degree and therefore does not do the job it should in applications that need liquid lube. The only time I would recommend grease in such an application is in an emergency to get you home or to a service facility so a proper repair of oil leaks can be made so the correct lube will stay in the unit.

This is especially true in the LU4 Braden winch. Most are not aware that the oil in both end housings on the winch can actually transfer from 1 end housing to the other via the drum shaft and bushings. If this doesn't happen, the drum shaft bushings do not get lubrication and will fail quickly if the winch is being used. Grease, corn head or any other type is not liquid and will not flow into this critical shaft bushing area.

The correct advice is this; repair / rebuild whatever component has a leak correctly using good quality current production seals and proper repair techniques so it will retain the proper lubricant. Bear in mind that a seal lip mating surface must be in good shape or a new seal is worthless. I hear this very often; "I replaced all the seals with new, but it kept on leaking." My first question, did you use new seals or NOS? If the answer is NOS, then that was the first mistake. My next question is did you inspect and repair as needed all the surfaces that the seals mate against? Most often that answer reveals the fact that the thought never even crossed their mind to look at that. In the minds of most, new seals are miracles in a box, and should solve all leaking issues, NOT, in fact, most cases a new seal alone will not do the job in older equipment that has been used and abused. You can bet that most military equipment has seen more than its fair share of abuse. It isn't likely that 60 year old NOS seals will fix a leaking issue even with proper surface repairs being made, so don't waste your time and $$ using them.

I expect that once again there will be some who think because of the statements that I've made above that I'm full of it. That's fine if you do as I've learned that some people just can't deal with advice that isn't what they hoped to hear, you can use what ever lube you like, and make repairs or not as you see fit. Usually what happens is a huge discussion about corn head lube because someone said it was fine to use it. I'm just not interested in going there when the bottom line is I know better.Charles Talbert
http://www.mseriesrebuild.comMSeriesRebuild
1SG


Posts: 2121
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
Location: Norwood, NC
Website