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First off, I'm waiting on the last of the components to get back from machinist, I can then do small amount of final welding and ours will be completed and ready to go. I have not pushed them in the name of holding cost down, just letting them work on parts along with other jobs as time permits.

As far as any custom rim, you are asking an impossible question. I could not know that until I had a sample of any custom rim in hand to make an attempt at installing it to see what happened. Clearance is always close between the rim and the caliper, any drop center rim will maker that clearance even tighter. All I know to say at this point. I went through the hassle of trying to get custom rims years back, never could get manufacturers to say they would stand behind any product they built. We simply were not willing to install components that builders would not stand behind; so be careful, ask questions before you get rims customized or you could get stuck with a big investment for junk parts. Actually we had several different companies to say they would do it, however when I started asking questions concerning liability of their product, they all started to back pedal readily.

I think I have been dreaming when I hoped to have tubeless 16" drop center rims work on old drums or new disc brakes. I have pretty new tires in that size and I hoped to keep them. If I were to get my wheel centers welded into new rims, what would be the best size. 16.5",17", 18"? I would like to keep a narrow profile, like my 16"-9" Power King Premium Tractions have if possible, but I presume the next widths are 9 or 10 inch. I am asking what rims size would fit the calipers and have a good selection of tires. I like more siped tires than most of the military tread patterns also

Years ago when some did drop center rims, (they were not top quality rims either by the way) they had to be 16.5 in order to fit over the drum because of the drop center. There were no tires in 16.5 that offered the original appearance. There is no easy solution to this issue, us and several others went over it all 10 or more years ago. If you have time and $$ to invest in coming up with a tubeless solution while keeping the original appearance, it can likely be done in some form by some one with enough $$ to spend, however it's like all other repro items, small market with huge bucks required to produce a reliable solution initially. By all means be careful, some will sell you London Bridge all the while knowing their intent is to furnish junk workmanship that no one can stand behind. I will also add that some who are recognized as reliable vendors will do it to you too. Yes there are vendors with $$ signs in their eyes instead of a desire to run a reputable business with your well being in mind. I was told numerous times, "sure we can do that", however when the word "liability" was introduced into the conversation, the conversation was over very abruptly EVERY time. I would just say be careful.

Charles, are you using the GM big single piston calipers similar to rays conversion?

Kaegi wrote:Charles, are you using the GM big single piston calipers similar to rays conversion?

Ours are single piston, not sure what Ray was using. I tried some dual piston calipers a few years back on a couple of projects; didn't see any improved performance out of it. The simple truth is unless a booster is incorporated into the system, I'm not happy with the outcome personally. This is true with the original system as well as a disc system, doesn't matter whether it's dual or single line circuit. A booster is the secret to really good brakes either way.

MSeriesRebuild wrote:

Kaegi wrote:Charles, are you using the GM big single piston calipers similar to rays conversion?

Ours are single piston, not sure what Ray was using. I tried some dual piston calipers a few years back on a couple of projects; didn't see any improved performance out of it. The simple truth is unless a booster is incorporated into the system, I'm not happy with the outcome personally. This is true with the original system as well as a disc system, doesn't matter whether it's dual or single line circuit. A booster is the secret to really good brakes either way.

I agree with you there. a hydravac even on stock drums is an amazing difference. thanks