g741.org

Paul;
Even if you damage the wheel it can be repaired! I will try and post pictures of before and after but if they don’t go through email me @ hb_baxter1@msn.com and I will get them to you that way.
hb

sorry i am no used to those kind of high jack, i just got a bit pissed when the puller on ebay was gone,

i would really like to know wich material are used to restore a wheel,
thanks for the info

The Eastwood company makes a steering wheel repair material.

http://www.eastwood.com/pc-7-epoxy-can-1-lb.html

For wheels that are cracked around the spokes but the steel portion is still intact, autobody filler can be used to fill the gaps (after the recomended surface prep). A little sanding and some paint and viola! one good looking wheel again...

Master Yota wrote:For wheels that are cracked around the spokes but the steel portion is still intact, autobody filler can be used to fill the gaps (after the recomended surface prep). A little sanding and some paint and viola! one good looking wheel again...

Thanks for that tip.........what do you use for paint that will not wear so easy????

vtdeucedriver wrote:

Master Yota wrote:For wheels that are cracked around the spokes but the steel portion is still intact, autobody filler can be used to fill the gaps (after the recomended surface prep). A little sanding and some paint and viola! one good looking wheel again...

Thanks for that tip.........what do you use for paint that will not wear so easy????

I'll be honest, I haven't done this trick yet, but I did watch it performed on one of the "tech tips" segments on the tube. I think it was Gears tv or something like that. I don't recal the paint that was used. I would imagine that a good quality two part paint should work well. I think rattle can would leave yours fingers a little green...

Here is that photo of the home made puller I used.

Nice puller!!!!!

Nice puller !
Does anyone else have one they made that they can post a picture of? It would be nice to see variations. I borrowed one from Power Wagon Tim, thanks again Tim. I want to make one for myself.
I can't see payin' well over 100 bucks for one.
I will have to pull my box again because after I rebuilt it I couldn't seal the top where the steering shaft comes out so it leaks.
Anyone have an idea how to seal the shaft ? I tried to combine an O ring and the old metal ring and spring. It worked great until I turned the wheel a few times. There are no more NOS seals around.

rixm37 wrote:Nice puller !
Does anyone else have one they made that they can post a picture of? It would be nice to see variations. I borrowed one from Power Wagon Tim, thanks again Tim. I want to make one for myself.
I can't see payin' well over 100 bucks for one.
I will have to pull my box again because after I rebuilt it I couldn't seal the top where the steering shaft comes out so it leaks.
Anyone have an idea how to seal the shaft ? I tried to combine an O ring and the old metal ring and spring. It worked great until I turned the wheel a few times. There are no more NOS seals around.

No problem to cut one, the NOS seal was only a round piece of cork material. You can cut one from a flat cork rubber material of the correct thickness. I'm sure technology has won out and a better material exist now that would out last the cork rubber blend, perhaps buna-N, or viton possibly. I need to look into that. We have the cutters to do it I think.

Thanks Charles. I am trying to think of something like you are talking about. My first try was the Oring glued to the end of the box with silicon and held down by the spring and collar. But it leaked. I have also heard of using grease instead of oil but I think it would not lube the bearings and races well. I was thinking of adapting a regular oil seal held to the end of the box by silicone and the spring and collar. I don't know if the steering shaft is smooth enough to form a seal.
Guess I will try it when I pull the box again. I can play with it on the bench and spin it around.

rixm37 wrote:Thanks Charles. I am trying to think of something like you are talking about. My first try was the Oring glued to the end of the box with silicon and held down by the spring and collar. But it leaked. I have also heard of using grease instead of oil but I think it would not lube the bearings and races well. I was thinking of adapting a regular oil seal held to the end of the box by silicone and the spring and collar. I don't know if the steering shaft is smooth enough to form a seal.
Guess I will try it when I pull the box again. I can play with it on the bench and spin it around.

We have done the oil seal thing before using a seal with a rubber coated casing, does pretty good if you use the correct oil and don't overfill the box. Most of our trucks get power steering, of course that does away with the issue.

When the box is empty of oil, it holds exactly 12 ounces, any more and it will over flow. Worm Gear lube is the correct oil for the steering box. It doesn't tend to climb out like 90 weight does.

AH HA that may be part of my problem. At first I over filled it but then sucked out the over fill and left 12oz of 75/90 wt in it and it still is spilling out the top.
So there is a worm gear lube. I didn't know that. Is that how you ask for it at the parts store?

Power steering would be so nice. Well someday. Just got to use the old muscles until then. Move a little turn a little

They were under the old GL2 designation.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Rea ... ubrication

http://www.jax.com/products/gear-lubric ... trial.aspx

http://www.le-inc.com/products/document ... _flyer.pdf

rixm37 wrote:AH HA that may be part of my problem. At first I over filled it but then sucked out the over fill and left 12oz of 75/90 wt in it and it still is spilling out the top.
So there is a worm gear lube. I didn't know that. Is that how you ask for it at the parts store?

Power steering would be so nice. Well someday. Just got to use the old muscles until then. Move a little turn a little

I like Royal Purple worm gear lube. None of the automotive lubricant suppliers around here have it, as it is classified as an industrial lubricant. We get all our Royal Purple stuff from Atlan-tec. They are both the automotive and industrial supplier for NC and SC. I'm sure there is likely a similar distribution network in your area. Their prices are way cheaper than over the counter at NAPA, etc.