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After a number of weeks, the transfer case is done!



And now installed back in the truck:



I got the engine back from the machine shop. I need to check the seating of the valves now that there are new valve guides.






Clean rear drive shaft ready for new U joints:



It’s nice to open NOS U joints and see now nice they are:



Rear Drive Shaft with new U joints installed and primed:



Rear Drive Shaft done:

Really nice work.

Was your engine sleeved when you disassembled it, or did you have your machine shop do that work?

everything looking great! dont throw away the old ujoint snap rings! if you bought new ujoints the snap rings tend to be too thin. that allows the ujoint to slide out of where it should be. NOS ujoints should have correct thickness. the old ones you have are easier to service with the bent out ends

Excellent work, and great photos!
Gary

Elwood wrote:Really nice work.

Was your engine sleeved when you disassembled it?

It was sleeved. There was a rebuild tag pinned on the side of the block from the 1970's. I am guessing back then it was bored and standard sized sleeves were installed.

I took the block to an older machine shop, the guy has worked on these 230ci engines, mostly from forklifts. He said he could over bore the sleeves. I went .030 over.

my engine was sleeved at some point in its past life, no rebuild tag on the block. I suspect not done at army Depot Maintenance shop, My machine shop pulled and replaced one sleeve, bought from a vendor, came in the original packaging. If you do a forum search, there is a lot of info on sleeving these Motors, mostly by M37 Rebuild's shop up in Norwood NC.

'Going to buy more chain and finish airing up my new NDT, I have a remote air chuck. Ring looks to be well seated on the rim. Then take it to a local truck tire shop to have it balanced. Will clean and repaint the drum before I mount it back on my truck. Move that tire to the bed spare. My 37 starts and runs fine now, since I put a new electric Facet fuel pump on, and re set my carb's float level. Hal

Back to working on the truck this summer. I decided I like the way the high back Humvee seat sits better than the old springs in the old seat. Here is the bottom of the seat to try and figure out how to mount it.



Here are the seat runners that came with my truck. I hated to cut these up to change the mounting for the high back seat.



So, I pulled off some old runners I will clean up from one of the junk trucks.



With the runners mounted without the sliding part the seat sits lower.

The work on fixing and prepping the cab is done so on to priming it:





Since I was going to paint the cab the final color I got my tail lights ready to paint too. Here I painted the interior white:



The outside got primer:



I needed to mask the Gama Goat lenses:





All painted:



Now time to paint the cab. I decided to use a Wagner Power painter and the Behr HD paint.



The cab with all its dents and wrinkles turned out good:

Looking good, I've got a set of the Goat lenses, love 'em!

Like in the past I get distracted by other projects that I have going. I finally decided to finish the gas station light project I started years ago. What sparked it back to life was I found a guy in Fort Wayne In. that makes the sign. It’s a foam core with metal on both sides, so it’s not a heavy as the old porcelain signs.



Once that was done, back to the truck! Installed the cowl vent. It turned out looking good!





I got the seat installed. Then pulled it out until the body is more done.



The Driver and Passenger taillights are installed.



Working on the instrument panel.



Stripped. Found the original decals for the high beam and fuel. Ever wonder why only the fuel gauge has a decal to identify it? Maybe that’s the only one the Army thinks the Driver should care about?





Engine parts all laid out.



NOS connecting rods from John Bizal.



Using the valve seat cutter.



I forgot to take photos of the seat grinding process. But here is the finished seat and the valve lapped in.





Got the cam bearings out to drive in and decided to assemble the liters instead.

The guy who rebuilt my 230 took great pains to balance the con rods. He said it was the best thing to do for these motors.

Yeah, I think balancing the rods can be helpful for engine longevity. Not to mention a bit smoother. My engine is balanced too. My truck sure seems to have more power here in hilly Lexington SC than I remember. Maybe fixing the barely adequate fueling before I put in the new big in-tank filter really let my motor romp. hal

Lookin' good!
Gary

Time for an update!

Nice NOS connecting rods all ready to balance:



This fall I worked on balancing the pistons and the rods.

Weighing the pistons, rings, pins and pin retainers to find the best combination:



Now that all the pistons are balanced on to the connecting rods.

Balancing the small end first:



Small ends with material removed and balanced:



Now the total weights are matched:



Worked on installing the camshaft:





Took a break from the engine and worked on the dash instruments. Here I have added new ground wires to the dash lights. The rubber surround on these were cracked but still not falling apart. Not sure why I bought white liquid tape.



I added a rebuilt insides and power wire. I used large shrink tubing and pushed it over the old rubber housing:



Now finished and with black liquid tape:




Testing out the finished dash lights:



Gauges all cleaned and painted:





There is a problem here between the gauge and the sender. Can you see it?





Painted stuff:

Very good job! At least some of us are moving!