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something I would suggest is to use a stud instead of the bolt that secures the distributor to the block. When I rebuilt my engine with help from others I used assorted ARP stainless fasteners every where I could. I had/have a big assortment left over from other projects, and used a "bullet" head SS stud for the small bolt to he block. That way, with the "bullet" rounded top, all you need too do is drop a nut on it, and it will perfectly start on the threads, without having to fuss with the small bolt.

You will get this sorted out. One thing to check is the coarse adjustment on the back of the distributor, allowing larger rotation than the fine rotation of the fine fastener to the block. I found it possible to have the oil pump/dizzy gears one tooth off, and have enough adjustment with both adjustments to start and run my motor. I installed my oil pump with absolute precision according to the TM and pics on this forum, and it drove fine, and 'Charles T told me I had it one tooth off later.

NV

That stud idea is great. I'll do that this weekend. I've almost cramped my left hand off trying to get that little bugger started. We have nailed TDC, our timing marks line up and all is good with timing gears and chain, so no major work. We have some funky things happening with current getting past our ignition toggle switch and lighting up spark plus with no regard to rotor position, so we are looking hard at distributor and new points and condenser installation. It's almost like we are engerizing the entire block. Working with Matt and VPW, so we are close to at least identifying the root problem.

hello guys I am on the same issue. need to find TDC I have no marks on my pulley. will check the #6 inspection plug

Looks like you're getting close, signsup; follow along Vit and you'll get yours set up too!
Gary

I've found the plug at #6 cyl that you can use for reference.
it's on the head
take a look!!



I've inserted a weire and moved by hand the belt and the wire goes up and down!!

For sure it will help!!

Next step, mark the zero in de compression time and add a ruler to calibrate it.
Remember the #6 will have to be in the exhaust time when the #1 is in the compression time

Ronnie

I don't think I've ever noticed that plug on mine, and I had the head ground a few years back!
Gary

it is strange that there is not even a mark on mine to find the correct timing.
The same design is in the M601 that my brother bough last week. No marks at all.

I have to say that the marks really exist. they are very hard to see but they are there in the pulley. there is a graduation or ruller. so if the next step is to make the reference pointer

Hello my friends!!

I will be posting "my" way of solving this issue without disassembling de radiator to restore the pointer back

here you can see the ruller. without any pointer:



here the pointer bolted from above in a way that it can't move.



then I aligned the so marked "0" in the pulley with the pointer.
in this picture the left mark in the pulley is the "0" (you will see a 0 marked originally), the middle yellow mark is 5° and then 10° on the right, you have to align it from above. your eyes must be near the radiator cap to align it.
In this picture it is showing like 1°due to parallelism error



now the engine iddles very good and works fine at high RPMs it does not missfire as it did before but still not so much power

hope this helps for others.

We let it at 4° before TDC is that correct?
I have read it has to be after TDC?

and at what RPM should I adjust it?
My distributor and carb is not original. it has an advance vacuum hose connected to each other but I unfortunately it works even worse when we connect it...

vit16 wrote:We let it at 4° before TDC is that correct?
I have read it has to be after TDC?

and at what RPM should I adjust it?
My distributor and carb is not original. it has an advance vacuum hose connected to each other but I unfortunately it works even worse when we connect it...

I need help!!

Sorry Vit,
I recall Charles posting that 2 degrees AFTER TDC was optimal. I always adjust timing at idle speed.

Sorry I can't offer anything on your hybrid carb situation.
Gary

Excellent Gary, This info it's more than enough!!

Charles posted on the Dodge M37/M43 Facebook group a few weeks ago that 4˚ before TDC was optimum. I've read that somewhere else as well. (Someone also told me that there is a typo in one of the manuals where it says 4˚ AFTER, but I have not checked for myself.) Link to the thread (Charles' comment is buried in the replies)

NOTE: I am most definitely NOT an expert at these engines, just passing along what I've heard other more knowledgeable folks say.

Thanks John!
I will be trying both configurations.
It wont go over 30 mph, Will be trying many different things