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The port that pulls vacuum for the accelerator pump is wet






This is the spring I am using for the accelerator pump check. I don't think it's right. If you push hard the ball will go into the spring.


This step up valve plunger did not have a spring under it. I think it is supposed to have one


New accelerator pump on the left, old on the right. The new one the leather rides over the spring. The old rides on top of the spring

My fuel pump rigging


Fuel level is at the bottom of the screw driver

good progress! that is some action on the spring
now it should work like Chrysler planed

Found this on a etw1 video on Youtube. I definitely don't have the right pump check ball spring

Point was missing the same spring in his carb.

RMS wrote:Point was missing the same spring in his carb.

How does my fuel level look? Fuel is at the tip of the screw driver

looks like factory. if you climb lots of walls it can be lowered to just above the bottom of the cut on the throttle pump bore.

I worked on it until about 11 last night. I put it back together with the ball point pen spring holding the pump check ball, lowered the float level just a little and started cranking. No fuel really poured out of the PCV anymore but it just wouldn't run. It would run a starting fluid but not on the carb. I noticed that if I had someone crank while I looked in the carb, if you had the choke on, started cranking and took the choke off that fuel would come out of the vent right behind the choke. Now after messing around with it it will not even run on starting fluid. I took the plugs out and sprayed them with brake cleaner and no change. I am to the point of selling it or doing a v8 swap. I am DONE with this 230.

V8 has a more complicated carburetor. Just quit dicking about and rebuild with new and CORRECTw components the unit you have. These are NOT magic mystery. Suck, squeeze, bang blow. Fuel, spark and compression. All just basic tune up skills.
Start at base engine. Compression, manifold gasket condition, etc.
Make sure it has decent spark at the correct time.
Then, a correctly setup carb.
It will run.

Ok so I am still trying to get it to run. My friend get the idea to run it off propane. He had his kit left from when he parted his jeep out. We decided to run it through the carb since that is how dual fuel set ups work. Still spits and sputters but wont run. When its spitting and sputtering my manifold vacuum is 30 inches.



I also bought a 97 f350 with a dana 60, 10.25 and a running 351w. I may use this motor with a 2wd np435 im going to pick up today.


In the mean time, Will Watson is still trying to convince me to get my 230 running. I have ordered Civilian plug wires and plugs to try.
He said "Civilian wires, on the distributor bend the core over the outside and shove it in the hole. The boots slid over the threads holds the wire in."

So I was about to give up on the ol 230 and Will Waston talked me into trying civilian plugs and wires so I ordered some 7mm solid core wires from Rock Auto part # 3602 and AC Delco R45 Plugs

Cut them to length, wrapped electrical tape around them one time to make them fit tighter into the distributor, bent the wire over then pushed it into the distributor. Then you take the boot and push it over the threads.





Got the put on friday night, and tried to start it on propane with no luck. The vaporizer was not letting any fuel through

We took the propane stuff off, hooked the fuel back up, and heated the intake with a torch and boom! It fired up!

Here is a video
https://www.facebook.com/addial/videos/ ... 8297025856

Good Going!!!! Looking forward to hearing about the test drive !

Now just start swapping the original wires back in one at a time till you find the bad ones and get a couple new ones. I have a couple spares I can part with

Somewhere in this thread I read where you said the spark was bright blue, then someone said no you should have an orange spark. A strong spark at plug gaps should be blue with a shape pop as the spark jumps. Reddish or orange spark is weak, a sign of a bad coil or other electrical component issues.

RMS wrote:

dozer_xj wrote:I have a nice bright blue spark

there's your problem it should be red to orange

MSeriesRebuild wrote:Somewhere in this thread I read where you said the spark was bright blue

= razz........ you know, a joke?