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another basic question. TDC is when you just feel the pressure building or when its stopping?
Thanks,

Hi Gerry,
TDC on the compression stroke is what you are looking for. With your finger over the spark plug hole, when you feel the compression pushing your finger off the hole, stop, and look at the pointer on the timing chain cover, it should be approaching your timing marks. Then continue turning the engine over with a wrench on the main pulley until the pointer is at TDC.
Tim

Thanks. now to find those marks. I vaguely remember them while painting the engine

Does anyone have a picture of the timing marks? mine are very faint and I cant tell what is before or after tdc. Or just describe what direction to go.
Thanks,

If the marks are too hard to read, use the timing plug in the top of the head over the #6 cylinder.

It is a 1/8"pipe plug. Unscrew it and set it aside.

Drop a 12" or so piece of stiff wire (A stick-arc welding rod works pretty well) in the hole.

It will ride up & down when rotating the crank with a wrench, watch for maximum 'out' and that will be TDC.

PoW

We have all given Gerry good advice, but he still is unsure due to the amount of posts. Lets see if I can get back to basics and include most of what has been said into one post. Gerry before you start let others either add to my post or give it the go.
Basics
The crank pulley makes two complete revolutions clock wise for one firing stroke, of that cylinder.
The oil pump gear is meshed with the cam (which drives the distributor half speed) and the distributor makes one full revolution for every two revolutions of the crank pulley.
Therefore on #1 you hit TDC twice with the rotor only pointing to terminal #1 once.
#6 also hits TDC twice but at the same time as #1 hits TDC.
When, lets say, #6 is at TDC ready for the intake stroke, then #1 is at TDC for the firing stroke.
So putting a rod / pencil into the 1/8" hole over # 6 you can know when both #6 and #1 are at TDC.
This is where having your finger over the #1 hole and feeling the pressure build pins down #1 TDC firing stroke.
When you get to this point you should find marks under the pointer, or make a mark.
It is at this point the distributor rotor should point at #1, If it points to #6 you are 180* out.
If the rotor is indeed pointed at #6 I wouldn't get involved with the oil pump. JMHO

Update,
Oil pump was out 180 deg. Re-installed and put dist. back in. She now points to #1 cylinder. She is sputtering now when I crank her so I am getting closer. Still need to set to 2 before tdc but ran out of time. Hopefully Sat will be the lucky day I get her running.
Thanks all for the advice.

Good Job Gerry,
It is possible that you have fouled your spark plugs with repeated cranking and no firing. If you have a sandblast cabinet, clean up the engine side and try again.
Keep up posted.
Tim

Some 120 wet/dry sand paper to the anode and cathode will also clean them up enough to get the spark to jump the gap until you can get the engine running hot enough to burn the extra carbon out of the cylinders.

She is alive!!!! She starts hard but purrs like a kitten once started. Need to find some time to fine tune
Thanks again all!!!!!

Gerry,

Glad to hear you got the ol' girl going! She looks great too, with the exception of that Boston Bruins hat some mistakingly left on the cowl.

Go Devils! (I mean next year)

regards,
bob

Good to hear she is running. Congrats!

Gerry,

That is great that you got it running. The truck is looking good so far.

Bert