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Cracked block usually means you now have a new anchor for your boat. You could try welding the block but with the generous supply of parts available it isn't worth the time, effort or expense. Just my opinion, FWIW. If it were me, I'd look for another engine to rebuild.

That depends on where the block is cracked. Some cracks can be welded up without anything else being required. Cracks in cylinder walls can sometimes be welded up, bored out, and sleeved, thus saving an other wise good block. What you do will depend on how much money you want to spend on it. The only blocks I've come across that can be totally relegated to becoming boat anchors are ones where big chunks have been knocked out of them. Money, in large doses, can cure almost anything.

Lifer wrote:That depends on where the block is cracked. Some cracks can be welded up without anything else being required. Cracks in cylinder walls can sometimes be welded up, bored out, and sleeved, thus saving an other wise good block. What you do will depend on how much money you want to spend on it. The only blocks I've come across that can be totally relegated to becoming boat anchors are ones where big chunks have been knocked out of them. Money, in large doses, can cure almost anything.

This is the route that would have to be taken with this particular engine...not my problem though, the engine is out of MY truck


So should I just take this thing to the scrap yard after salvaging everything possible off of it, or is it worth being sold as a core in its present condition?

As promised! Here is my newly installed civilian "Chrysler industrial engine" in my 1952 M37!

that is one green motor i see you went with civi accessories did you use a 6v or 12v starter. looks like a mill spec oil filler tube, i thought industrial blocks had a press fit tube?

RMS wrote:that is one green motor i see you went with civi accessories did you use a 6v or 12v starter. looks like a mill spec oil filler tube, i thought industrial blocks had a press fit tube?

Yeaaah was supposed to be "olive" green, but the mechanic mis-read the paint label and used "oliver" green...no lie

The truck has a 12 volt civi starter, which is actually getting near its last leg.
The filler tube was what came with the industrial engine, but I don't know enough about the industrial models to know for sure...

[quote="poor rich"] in some applications such as forklifts, the engine turns backwards or CCW, wouldn't that be a bitch to go through all the work of the refit just to find your truck is now Italian, 4 speeds backwards, and 1 forwards, incase the enemy gets behind you.

That sounds like a French issue to me!!

hb

Hi pwrwagonfire,

I was looking at your pics......did you put the cracked exhaust manifold back on....or is that just grease or something in the pic?

thanks,
bob


231 by w30bob

w30bob wrote:Hi pwrwagonfire,

I was looking at your pics......did you put the cracked exhaust manifold back on....or is that just grease or something in the pic?

thanks,
bob


231 by w30bob

Good eye! Both engines (the junk one which came out) and the one picture here, had cracked exhaust manifolds. Unfortunately. The shop used the one which was cracked, but not completely split all the way through...however NOW, it is completely split in half. The truck still runs and idles good, however it obviously needs attention. I'm moving into a garage at a relatives within the month, so once its safely indoors I will be tearing apart the engine to replace this (I have another), and to replace the radiator (I was lucky enough to score one of these as well)!

Lotsa happy wrenching ahead of me!

I actually just got the body back together yesterday, the only thing left other than cosmetics (and these two issues) is electrical, and I'm on the road!!