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Cav Trooper wrote:Another question. I've looked at the link about installing the master cylinder, looks pretty straight forward fabricating and wrenching, they mentioned a proportioning valve but hadn't done that yet. Has anyone had experience with the proportioning valves on all drum brakes. I don't want to convert over to discs in the front. I've seen valves for sale that are adjustable and I am inclined to think that is what I'll have to install to get the proper pressure ratio between the two systems. Any thoughts, advice, help???

Thanks,

Cav Trooper

I HAVE BEEN ALSO CHECKING OUT POSSIBILITIES OF UPGRADING MY BRAKES. THEY HAVE WORKED FINE ALL THESE YEARS, BUT MY TRUCK HAS BEEN A DAILY DRIVER AND WILL CONTINUE TO BE SO FOR AS LONG AS I CAN DRIVE. AS YERS GO BY HOWEVER, I DO NOT WANT TO BE ADJUSTING BRAKE PAD CLEARANCE ALL THAT MUCH. BACK TO YOUR QUESTION, WHAT I HAVE BEEN TOLD, IS A PROPORTIONING VALVE WOULD PROBABLY BE NEEDED ONLY IF I CONVERT ALL 4 CORNERS TO DISKS, IF I GO WITH DISKS IN THE FRONT AND DRUMS IN THE BACK, THEN NO VALVE IS NEEDED BECAUSE THE DISKS OUT PERFORM THE DRUMS. I THINK I ALSO READ THIS IN THE UGLY TRUCKLIN SITE, BUT I AM NOT SURE. I WILL HAVE TO RECHECK ON THAT. WITH JUST DRUMS, I DO NOT THINK YOU NEED A P/VALVE. I WAS DRIVING MINE ALL THIS TIME, WITH HEAVY LOADS AT TIMES, OR EMPTY AND AS FAST AS IT COULD GO. ON ROAD AR OFFROAD USE, AND ON ANY TERRAIN THAT I COULD FIT IT. NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH ITS BRAKES. THE NDCC TIRE BRAKING PERFORMANCE ON THE OTHER HAND, IS ANOTHER STORY. ESPECIALLY ON WET PAVEMENT, I WOULD LEAVE ABOUT A MILE CLEARANCE FROM THE VEHICLE IN FRONT, SO THEY WOULD NOT BECOME MY HOOD ORNAMENTS

Cav Trooper wrote:Another question. I've looked at the link about installing the master cylinder, looks pretty straight forward fabricating and wrenching, they mentioned a proportioning valve but hadn't done that yet. Has anyone had experience with the proportioning valves on all drum brakes. I don't want to convert over to discs in the front. I've seen valves for sale that are adjustable and I am inclined to think that is what I'll have to install to get the proper pressure ratio between the two systems. Any thoughts, advice, help???

Thanks,

Cav Trooper

Don't waste your $$ doing all the valve installation, etc. You will find that the drum system is not efficient enough for any of this to matter. The dual circuit system is a safety thing, you will not tell any difference in the operation of the drum system from original. If you plan to incorporate a booster, then you will generate enough effort to matter; but even then a simple adjustable valve in the rear circuit is sufficient to do all you will need. The valve is not necessary even when disc are installed on the front, unless a power booster is in the mix. Complicating the system will not afford better braking.

Thanks to all, this is the info I really appreciate. Yes, the dual master cylinder is just for safety and piece of mind. I always leave plenty of stopping room in front of me, even though somebody always crowds into the open space. Everybody must be in a hurry to get to the next stop light, funny, when I get there, they are usually still sitting and waiting at the light and as I arrive, it changes and I usually don't have to slow up much. LOL. Just like the Army "Hurry up and wait"

Thanks again,

Cav Trooper

Rick C - can you provide some details on using dual chamber MC with all stock brakes? Can MC be bolted in stock location or does it require some modifications? Does front chamber connect to front or rear brakes? THANKS