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A closer look at the photo reveals that the rivets were cut, the center moved out and then welded. It's more obvious in person.

I saw a photo of an M37 in Africa with this mod and it was still in service. So this might be a field mod too.

Though I don't like the look of duals so they are coming off.

Carter wrote:Looking at the shots closer I see what looks like spots of mig weld metal, should be rivets unless they were made up new with welding. The trailer rims I saw were riveted.

The deep dish rims we got were welded, as new. They were off set to the point rivets would not have worked, too close to the edge.

Charles, that explains why they look welded in the pic. Maybe I'm not correctly remembering what I saw at Waterloo road in Akron, 1982.

Carter wrote:Charles, that explains why they look welded in the pic. Maybe I'm not correctly remembering what I saw at Waterloo road in Akron, 1982.

There is absolutely no telling what you may see out and about, there may well have been some that were put together with rivets. These we found were almost new condition, it was easy to identify they were welded when they were built, no rivet holes, etc, definitely was not a mod job. I'd love to find more like these, but I've seen no good evidence that they are easily found.

outsider wrote:This is a rant about M 37 parts listed on EBay as "Rare". Here is the link to the parts:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... OTORS:1123

These are anything BUT rare! You can purchase these at any Heavy Duty Truck parts outlet. Just tell them you want inner and outer nuts for a steel Budd rim set up.

I sent the seller a PM stating they were not rare as he said in his listing. He sent me back a PM basically telling me to mind my own business. People like him that think misleading buyers is OK just piss me off.

Rant off.
Steve

SO YOU MEAN I COULD GO AHEAD AND ORDER SUCH BOLT EXTENSIONS FROM A VENDOR? WHERE CAN I FIND THEM? I AM INTERESTED IN TURNING MY M INTO DUALLY. AND THE OFFSET RIM DESCRIBED FURTHER DOWN SEEMS INTERESTING APROACH. HOWEVER, WITH WHAT TOOL DOES ONE INSTALL AND REMOVE THE EXTENTION WITH THE SQUARE HEAD?

refit1701 wrote:A closer look at the photo reveals that the rivets were cut, the center moved out and then welded. It's more obvious in person.

I saw a photo of an M37 in Africa with this mod and it was still in service. So this might be a field mod too.

Though I don't like the look of duals so they are coming off.

IS IT ONLY ONE RIM ON EACH SIDE MODIFIED LIKE THIS, OR BOTH? WHAT IS THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE TIRES WITH THIS MOD?

Hi Sotven,
The M37 lug wrench has a square recess in one end. This will install the studs. The nuts are still 1 1/2 , just a lot thinner, so the standard lug wrench will work on the nuts too.
Tim

Just the outside rims are modified. I think there was 2 inches of clearance between the tires.

I would think that it might be easier to machine an aluminum wheel spacer (like the modern ones) rather than modify a rim and hope that its still "square" when its finished.

The size of the lug nuts might make that a bit of a challenge though...

Master Yota wrote:I would think that it might be easier to machine an aluminum wheel spacer (like the modern ones) rather than modify a rim and hope that its still "square" when its finished.

The size of the lug nuts might make that a bit of a challenge though...

I HAVE NEVER SEEN AN M37 DUALLY FROM UP CLOSE. BUT THOSE EXTENSION BOLTS THAT I SAW ON E BAY DO NOT SEEM TO BE LONG ENOUGH TO ALLOW A SPACER INBETWEEN THE RIMS. AS A MATTER OF FACT I DO NOT THINK THEY ARE LONG ENOUGH TO MAKE IT THROUGH THE SECOND RIM WHEN THE TIRES ARE INFLATED. ALSO I WOULD ASSUME THAT THE RIMS NEED TO BE VERY CLOSE TOGETER OTHERWISE THE STRAIN WILL BE GREAT ON THE BOLTS IF SAY THE OUTER WEEL RIDES OVER A BUMP THAT THE INNER WHEEL DID NOT TOUCH. AS FOR THE SQUARE PART, I TOO BELIEVE THAT IT WOULD BE HARD TO ACHIEVE WITH WELDING. THERE PROBABLY WOULD BE DEFORMATION AND WARPING INVOLVED. BUT RIVETING WOULD PROBABLY HAVE BETTER RESULTS.

powerwagontim wrote:Hi Sotven,
The M37 lug wrench has a square recess in one end. This will install the studs. The nuts are still 1 1/2 , just a lot thinner, so the standard lug wrench will work on the nuts too.
Tim

IT SEEMS AS IF IT IS A SQUARE SIMILAR TO THAT IN THE BACK OF THE BIG SIZE SOCKETS?

You fellows don't understand how Budd duals work. What you are calling long studs as seen in the picture is the inner rim nut. It's design is so that it screws onto the normal length stud and holds the inner rim in place as usual. The outer rim being reversed goes in place over the inner nuts and all the way against the inner rim, fits the chamfer in the stud holes of the rim for centering. The outer (large bore nut) then screws onto the threads of the inner nut to lock the outer rim. Just look at the rear wheels on any current production trucks that run Budd type rims as most modern vehicles do. You'll readily see how the set up comes together.

Charles is 100% correct in his description, and I understand that (thanks for the refresher though!). My point was to use the new spacer design, rather than look for oddball wheels that might or might not work. The new spacer design has 5 counter sunk holes in it to bolt on to the wheel hub (after the inner tire is installed). There would also be 5 pressed in wheel studs to accomodate mounting the second outer tire. All the modern wheel spacers over 1" thick are built this way. Its simple, easy,and effective.

Oh the fun you'll have should one of those hub studs ever break on your dually! With a special tool or a gas axe you can get the outer nut off the inner stud/nut (one reason I stopped working on 18-wheelers).
Gary