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greencom wrote:Monkeymissile,

I didn't know the washers were brass! Thank you, it makes sense now, the washer's tapered opening gets larger loosening up the bolt/washer clearance a little letting the manifold move, thank you. Some places sell the nuts in brass however, I don't think that will work. Thanks again sir, that is why I love this forum, lots on knowledgeable people in it.

Greencom

I am still learning myself, this topic just happened to be about the last repair I just did. Glad I could help.

Dear greencom: Pray, Tell: What is the torque for these miraculous washers ?

peter e mark wrote:Dear greencom: Pray, Tell: What is the torque for these miraculous washers ?

Hi there Peter E Mark,
As pointed out to me by monkeymissile TM8 engine manual page 104 states 15 to 20 foot pounds. It is hard to believe that all that theory actually works huh? But it is quite clever and I will go by the book.

Greencom

I depend on the books quite heavily myself. And I hope to start this manifold exchange this weekend. Imagine neighbors, no more noisy engine !

peter e mark wrote:I depend on the books quite heavily myself. And I hope to start this manifold exchange this weekend. Imagine neighbors, no more noisy engine !

I hope it all goes well for you, I have to wait for my gaskets and special (miracle) washers.
Greencom

Thank You, And I'm confident because I met this young female reenactor at the memmorial day parade who thinks I'm a relative of George Patton. She has promised to help me with this job; hand me tools, fix me drinks, and generally look good in her WW2 army uniform. I just hope I can pay attention to the work instaed of starring at her....

peter e mark wrote:Thank You, And I'm confident because I met this young female reenactor at the memmorial day parade who thinks I'm a relative of George Patton. She has promised to help me with this job; hand me tools, fix me drinks, and generally look good in her WW2 army uniform. I just hope I can pay attention to the work instaed of starring at her....

Hmmmm.... tell you what General, better recheck your manifold job during the week. Alone.

Greencom

Okay, it's still easy without a tightening sequence.

Step 1: Make sure your intake and exhaust manifolds are only loosely fastened together. This will allow them to "slide" into proper alignment as you tighten the nuts.

Step 2: Start at the center and work in both directions, alternating left and right, until all nuts are "finger tight."

Step 3: Dig out the torque wrench/socket and crank 'em all down to about 5 ft/lb, following the same sequence.

Step 4: Again following the same sequence, torque 'em all down to about 10 ft/lb.

Step 5: Following the same sequence again, torque 'em all down to spec.

Step 6: tighten down the bolts holding the intake and exhaust manifolds together.

If all goes well, everything should seal up just right with no cracking.

(I learned this procedure many years ago after having broken 3 brand new manifolds on a '49 Plymouth. Finally got it right on the 4th try, only to blow the engine a week later. I was a slow learner back in my teen-age years, I guess.)

Thanks LIFER,and all, And now all I need is some lasting sunshine ...wish me luck !

Problem Lifer,
You can't get a torque wrench onto a few nuts on the manifold like the two top middle and the bottom middle, only an open end wrench will fit. I guess one has to approximate the less accessible nuts.

Greencom

I decided to separate the manifolds while I have them off to check the heat valve and replace the gasket, maybe I should not have. I got out the air wrench as I have much better luck with it regarding bolt breakage plus it's just a lot easier. The first three came out with no problem, the fourth one broke at the intake. Amazingly enough I was able to drill it out and saved the original threads, I found that to be quite satisfying. I probably used up all my good luck for quite a while. Could not have done it without a drillpress, sharp center punch, good bits and most important, a punch mark very close to the exact center of the broken off bolt. By the way Peter E Mark, don't try this with your new found reenactor friend around, you may not hit the center. Hopefully you won't break anything(truck parts I mean)

Greencom

greencom wrote:I decided to separate the manifolds while I have them off to check the heat valve and replace the gasket, maybe I should not have. I got out the air wrench as I have much better luck with it regarding bolt breakage plus it's just a lot easier. The first three came out with no problem, the fourth one broke at the intake. Amazingly enough I was able to drill it out and saved the original threads, I found that to be quite satisfying. I probably used up all my good luck for quite a while. Could not have done it without a drillpress, sharp center punch, good bits and most important, a punch mark very close to the exact center of the broken off bolt. By the way Peter E Mark, don't try this with your new found reenactor friend around, you may not hit the center. Hopefully you won't break anything(truck parts I mean)

Greencom

all but one of my bolts broke and had to be drilled out when I separated mine, consider yourself lucky!

I believe broken fasteners are the ultimate pain in the restoration process, for any project for that matter, and the most difficult to fix. It can turn a half hour job into a days long , expensive ordeal.

Greencom

Gentlemen...May I announce the latest tecknology for removing studs ...it's called an oxygen-acetalyne torch..I plan on having my aforesaid assistant, Lolita, be the tank operator for thgis job. She will open and close the gas tanks, as required, light the torch, and also be the fire watch....

greencom wrote:Problem Lifer,
You can't get a torque wrench onto a few nuts on the manifold like the two top middle and the bottom middle, only an open end wrench will fit. I guess one has to approximate the less accessible nuts.

Greencom

You might try a crow foot on your torque wrench. If it will fit it will change the torque reading but there is a website that will do the conversion for you.

http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx