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Start there. Also check to ensure no burrs on the inner cable. Also check to ensure the ends are secure on the cable and not loose.
Gary

Cal_Gary wrote: ↑Mon Apr 18, 2022 8:33 pm Start there. Also check to ensure no burrs on the inner cable. Also check to ensure the ends are secure on the cable and not loose.
Gary

That worked well! The speedo flutters a bit +_ 2 mph but not like it was.

+/- 2 mph is nothing for this trucks. Congrats.

This works for now, but has anyone figured out the right tips you can put on civy wires?

Can you change the shifter shaft seals with the transfer case in the truck? That’s my biggest leak after the front pinion seal (why didn’t I change it beforehand?!?!?!)

It can be done, but it is a lot of jockeying tools around to remove them.

I drill 2 small holes along the front edge of the seal, 180deg apart.

Use a couple #8 or so sheet metal screws to pull the seal out with a small crowbar.

Then use a drill with a wire brush or some of that abrasive ribbon for soldering pipe to remove any rust/rough spots on the fully extended shafts .

Take a 6"piece of pipe that will slip over the shaft and drive the new seals in with a small hammer, using a bit of sealant on the seal rims first.

Done.

Keep in mind, synthetic gear oil will let the transfer run quieter & cooler, but it will find the smallest space to leak more than regular gear oil.

PoW

Finished painting the bed with my secret recipe.

Outstanding, looks great!

Sigh.... I wish my wheel arches were that clean

Thanks. There is a ton of hammering in those. I think I tore it down just in time to stop the rust worms.

Looks like it's coming out of the producing plant right now!

Took a 6 mile trip to the gas station this am. First trip in traffic. Ran fine. Didn’t make too many people mad by my slowness. Pulled the #1 plug looks ok.

"reading" plugs is somewhat of a lost art. A few minutes of idle can really soot up a plug, One thing we can look for is a very overheated plug, or broken ceramic or bent/melted electrodes. When I pull my plugs for any reason, I use mew copper compression washers, I get them in various thickness from Jegs, used for "indexing" spark plugs. Plus anti seize and use a good torque wrench. Important to use the proper heat range too. I think "heat range" actually refers to the ceramic insulator, a bit longer to project more into the combustion chamber to burn off deposits better, ie, a hot plug, and for a cold plug, a shorter insulator.

hal

Hood is on!